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WINES OF PORTUGAL
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João Nicolau de Almeida & Filhos
/Zhu-wow Nee-Koh-Lao de All-May-Dah & Feel-yos/
DOC Douro, Portugal
In 1993, respected and accomplished Portuguese winemaker, João Nicolau de Almeida, along with his
two sons, Mateus and João, discovered an extraordinary vineyard site with multiple exposures and
elevations—a circular mount of schist in the upper Douro Valley. Planting on this mount seemed nearly
impossible but the family was driven; they were firm believers in the land and after a long, arduous
investigation, they were able to track down the individual owners and began to acquire small parcels for
their family project, Quinto do Monte Xisto. Each layer of schist that was uncovered on that hill presented
new challenges and opportunities to discover the unique characteristics of the land.
In 2005, the father and sons began to plant the vineyard located in Vila Nova de Foz Côa on the left bank
of the Douro River, in the cooler high altitude sub-region of Douro Superior. The Quinta covers nearly 100
acres, with only 25 reserved for vines which are planted at various levels of altitude and varying degrees
of exposure allowing the blending of warmer and cooler zones. The plots are farmed organically following
the principles of biodynamic agriculture while the resulting wines are foot-trodden in granite lagares
followed by 18 months of aging in 600 liter barrels. The differentiating factor of this winery is the uniting
of technological knowledge spanning now three generations, the diversity afforded by the land, respect
for the Douro culture, and for the
terroir
of Douro Superior. The production of benchmark still wines from
the Douro runs through the veins of this family; Nicolau’s father, Fernando, was the enologist who created
Ferreria’s legendary Barca Velha, while Nicholau pioneered vertical planting and aided in the production
of Ramos Pinto’s sought-after Duas Quintas. Every member of the family is involved in the business—
including Nicolau’s wife, Graça Eça de Queiroz Cabral, the link that binds the family together, helps with
the archiving, while Nicolau’s daughter, Mafalda, heads hospitality. Nicolau’s first son, Mateus, studied
winemaking in Bordeaux under professor Dennis Dubourdieu, followed by training in in South America
and the creation of Muxagat wines. He is Quinta do Monte Xisto’s managing director and winemaker
alongside his father. The younger, João, who helped develop the project from inception, is responsible for
the viticulture and is currently the winemaker at Quinta do Pessegueiro. Truly a family affair, João Nicolau
de Almeida & Sons is inspiring new generations of winemakers to innovate while carrying on a centuries-
old presence and value of family and diligence in the still wines of the Douro region.
Quinta do Monte Xisto
João Nicolau de Almeida once said, “we believe that the simpler the process of making wine, the more
easily one can reveal the origins of the wine, of its
terroir
. With less interference, the final product will
be more faithful to the land.” That is how Nicolau de Almeida & Filhos makes the Quinta do Monte Xisto,
vinified in granite lagares with foot treading followed by eighteen months of aging in 600-liter barrels.
A blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Francesa and Souz, displaying a glowing and brilliant appearance,
it’s a wine with a nose that reveals its authenticity and transports us directly into the world of the Quinta.
When we allow ourselves to be engaged by the wine, new aromas of fruit and forest appear, supported
by an elegant and balanced structure. Full of personality, it is both expressive and reflective of the land
where it is grown.
2012:
92 WA