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9

MARDI GRAS

I

’ve always loved Mardi

Gras. Costumes, parties,

parades and pageantry are

in my blood. Unfortunately, I’ve

had to miss far too many Fat

Tuesday celebrations because

producers in New York and

Hollywood view the day before Ash Wednesday as just another

Tuesday. But now that I’m back in the Big Easy, I’m making up for

lost time.

Mardi Gras loosely means “a farewell to flesh.” (Now, I interpret

that as the reason for refraining from meat consumption during

Lent, but you can draw your own conclusions.) We like to celebrate

Mardi Gras with a “Boeuf Gras Brunch.” It’s the perfect plan for

a day parade and a great hair-of-the-dog meal after some raucous

nighttime revelry.

You can do all of the prep work in advance, even ordering the food

from Rouses. Set a festive table or buffet. Old family Mardi Gras

photos are an artistic and more personal touch. A big glass punch

bowl filled with beads makes a great centerpiece and dumping

ground for your catch after the parades. We also recycle beads by

mailing care packages to the children of friends and families who

live out out-of-town ... and try to perpetuate the myth that the

reason why beads cover the trees on St. Charles Avenue is that we

grow them here.

Now bring on the grub.

Mardi Gras parade going is a serious sport and one that requires

proper nutrition and hydration fortification. Nothing beats a

Bloody Mary bar.This libation station can easily transform a simple

beverage into a full-blown appetizer, salad, or an actual meal in a

glass. And, like Mardi Gras itself, it can be enjoyed by all ages (just

keep the vodka separated, label the bottle or pour the hooch into a

pretty decanter).

What goes on the bar?That’s up to you.Make a run through Rouses

to gather pickled and fresh veggies, wild-caught Gulf shrimp,

lump crabmeat, bacon, smoked

sausages, and hot sauces, plus

anything else you want to jazz

up your tomato juice. Take

a good look around Rouses

produce department — the

Bloody Mary bar may be your

only chance to have fresh vegetables during the season, so harvest

the fields!

A great craft project and conversation piece is to bedazzle skewers

for all the accouterments to your Bloody Mary bar. Gather all your

doubloons, king cake babies, and purple, green and gold anything,

fire up that glue gun, and go.

For me no Mardi Gras celebration would be complete without

deviled eggs, especially when whipped up by my dear pal, writing

partner, Hazelnut manager extraordinaire, and sister by choice,

Katy Danos. I met this beautiful can do gal (she can do anything

and everything — even run a small country) when we attended

Tulane together. Katy hails from Rouses hometown of Thibodaux,

Louisiana, by the way, so you know she’s good stock.

I cherish my friendship with Katy almost as much as her delicious

deviled eggs. Like Katy herself, the eggs can be sweet or salty.

Sticking with our Boeuf Gras theme, I recommend a roast beef po-

boy bar. Order a really nice roast from your friendly Rouses butcher,

add loaves of hot French bread, gravy and all the condiments you

wish, and you’ve got an easy, sure fire hit on your hands.

Dessert is a no brainer during Mardi Gras: king cakes and queen

cakes (I love that Rouses has added a queen cake to their royal

lineup). Arrange the cakes on a separate table and employ cake

stands or other service pieces of various heights to create levels. If

you happen to have a tiara or crown just hanging around (and who

doesn’t?), it makes a really regal centerpiece. Or better yet, place

it upon your own noggin, and be the monarch for the day — you

prepared the wonderful Boeuf Gras Brunch, and you deserve a

fabulous and festive reign!

Boeuf Gras

One of the oldest symbols of pre-Lenten

celebrations was the fattened ox or Boeuf

Gras, representing the last meat consumed

before the fast begins. Societé de Boeuf Gras,

in the French settlement of Fort Louis de la

Mobile, aka Mobile, Alabama, paraded with a

large papier mâché bull’s head as its symbol

(Boeuf Gras was the second secret society

formed in Alabama; Masque de la Mobile, the

first). The Rex Organization in New Orleans,

which gave us the traditional Mardi Gras colors

of purple, green and gold, used the whole bull

as its model for its iconic float. Rex’s Boeuf

Gras rolls through the street accompanied by

masked riders dressed as cooks.

“We try to perpetuate the myth that

the reason why beads cover the trees on

St. Charles Avenue is that we

grow them here!”