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DRINKS.

55

the

passage

in

Numbers,

Strabo

has

declared

that

some

of

the

grapes

in

the

Holy

Land

measured

two

feet

in

length;

and

Reland

has

not

hesitated

to

declare,

as

if

unwilling

to

be

outdone

by

Strabo,

that

some

bunches

are

of

ten

pounds

weight.

This

prefatory

matter

could

make

no

pretence

to

completeness

if

it

omitted

an

instruction

for

the

service

of

wines,

denoting

the

order

in

which

they

should

be

drank

at

the

dinner

table,

which

has

already

been

given

by

an

adept.

Whether

the

matter

is

more

admirable,

or

the

style,

it

is

difficult

to

determine.

**I

would

recommend,"

says

Francatelli,

"all

bonvivants

desirous

of

testing

and

thoroughly

enjoying

a

variety

of

delectable

wines,

without

being

incommoded

by

the

diversity

of

those

introduced

for

their

learned

degusta-

tion,

to

bear

in

mind

that

they

should

be

drunk

in

the

following

order

;

viz.,

"

When

it

happens

that

oysters

preface

the

dinner,

a

glass

of

Chablis

or

Sauterne

is

their

most

proper

accompaniment."

After

soup

of

any

kind,

genuine

old

Madeira,

East

India

Sherry,

or

Amontillado

are

recommended

as

"

welcome

stomachics."

But

you

are

to

avoid,

as

you

value

your

health,

drinking

punch

after

Turtle

soup,

especially

Roman

punch.

With

fish,

a

large

variety

of

wines,

such

as

Pouilly,

Meursault,

Montrachet,

Barsac,

and

generally

all

dry

white

wines,

is

allowed.

With

the

entrees

you

are

permitted

to

drink

any

variety

of

Bordeaux

or

Burgundy.

Second

course

and

dessert

wines

are

given

at

too

great

a

length

to

admit

of

reproduction.

About

these

a

^'question

of

the

highest

importance"

arises

as

to

which