WINES
267
for consumption by the peasant class and very seldom finding
its way into export trade.
On the other hand, California, except for the very finest
French vintages, runs her European cousin a close race on
quality and quantity of marketable wines. For each of the
mother country's famous labels, this renowned state has pro
duced a similar type. This product, in a great many instances,
is grown on imported vines which are tended, frequently, by
the very same persons who tended the mother vines in Europe.
For the average palate, California wines are sufficiently
fine. They are, in their better varieties, endowed with full body
and bouquet. The expert refinement of the epicure only could
detect a difference. They are good enough, and to the nine
hundred ninety-nine, superb. Indeed, California's main handi
cap, in the race for supremacy, is that, having been blessed with
much richer soil than are the wine provinces of France, she is
thus unable to produce that ultra-dry product so dear to the
palate of the epicure.
As to the proper selection of wines for any given event this
publisher hesitates. Taste differs greatly and that which one
person raves over another finds mediocre. However, as a de
cision must be arrived at, let us approach it in this manner: It
depends entirely upon the "class" of the affair being planned.
If intended to be a "knockout," the very finest French importa
tions, unquestionably, should be placed before the honored
guests. At least two whites, two reds and a vintage champagne,
together with an imported dry Sherry and a real Cognac, of
old age, should be served. If slightly less "distingue," the
champagne, as well as one white and one red, may well be
omitted. For the other extreme a gallon of white and one of red
would get by nicely.
General rules laid down for wine seiwice require that whites
be served with light soups, white fish, oysters, other entrees
and with baked ham, turkey, chicken and desserts. If two be
selected the lighter one should be served first. These same