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WINES

267

for consumption by the peasant class and very seldom finding

its way into export trade.

On the other hand, California, except for the very finest

French vintages, runs her European cousin a close race on

quality and quantity of marketable wines. For each of the

mother country's famous labels, this renowned state has pro

duced a similar type. This product, in a great many instances,

is grown on imported vines which are tended, frequently, by

the very same persons who tended the mother vines in Europe.

For the average palate, California wines are sufficiently

fine. They are, in their better varieties, endowed with full body

and bouquet. The expert refinement of the epicure only could

detect a difference. They are good enough, and to the nine

hundred ninety-nine, superb. Indeed, California's main handi

cap, in the race for supremacy, is that, having been blessed with

much richer soil than are the wine provinces of France, she is

thus unable to produce that ultra-dry product so dear to the

palate of the epicure.

As to the proper selection of wines for any given event this

publisher hesitates. Taste differs greatly and that which one

person raves over another finds mediocre. However, as a de

cision must be arrived at, let us approach it in this manner: It

depends entirely upon the "class" of the affair being planned.

If intended to be a "knockout," the very finest French importa

tions, unquestionably, should be placed before the honored

guests. At least two whites, two reds and a vintage champagne,

together with an imported dry Sherry and a real Cognac, of

old age, should be served. If slightly less "distingue," the

champagne, as well as one white and one red, may well be

omitted. For the other extreme a gallon of white and one of red

would get by nicely.

General rules laid down for wine seiwice require that whites

be served with light soups, white fish, oysters, other entrees

and with baked ham, turkey, chicken and desserts. If two be

selected the lighter one should be served first. These same