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THE OLD WINES AND THE NEW 139
tation, the proper colour being given by a
mixture known as jeropiga, which is a preparation
of elder-berries, molasses, raisin juice, and spirit.
The wine which is made within the Metro
politan Police District, for the special benefit of
landladies, infirmaries, and she-choristers, is also
treated with a similar mixture, with the addition
of a little logwood-extract; but in fashionable
quarters the mixture is not known as jeropiga, a
name which would probably affect the sale.
Port wine was known in England before the
year 1700, but was not inmuch demand. From
the year mentioned till 1826 the export trade was
a monopoly in the hands of English merchants.
The effect of this monopoly was to increase the
price in England, and to gradually deteriorate
thequality. Exports from Oporto have decreased
in a marked way for the last forty years or so ;
and although there is still some demand, and
some decent wine left, the "hot and heady"
concoction whether dry or fruity, a lady's wine,
or a military ditto, is gradually leaving us. ^
The pity of it ! And simultaneously with its
departure comes the pronouncement of the
medical profession that port (with the exception
of the "old crusted" brand) does wut encourage
gout to abide within the human frame. I may
fairly claim to have been a "port man" all
my life, and never, when serving Her Majesty,
overlooked my orthodox allowance of the
" black strap" purchased with the Prince
Regent's allowance.
Nevertheless I arn not
going to recommend this description of wine as
an ideal breakfast drink j although very early in