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THE OLD WINES AND THE NEW 14.1

cinnamon, cloves, mace, and all-spice into a sauce

pan, with half a pint of water ; let it boil until

reduced one-half. Boil one bottle of port wine;

burn a portion of the spirit out of it by applying a

lighted paper to the saucepan. Put the roasted

lemon and spice into the wine, stir it well, and let

it stand near the fire ten minutes.

Rub a few

lumps of sugar on the rind of a lemon, put the

sugar into a bowl with the juice of half a lemon

(not roasted), pour the wine into it, grate some

nutmeg into it, sweeten to taste, and serve with the

lemon and spices floating on the surface.

Xo sum up, the decline and fall of port in

British estimation may be said to be due, mainly,

to the following causes ; inferiority of most of

the modern vintages, the introduction of whisky,

the present taste for lighter wines, such as the

cheaper clarets and burgundies, with the wines of

Germany and Italy, and a sort of "boom" in

wines from Australia and California.

These

last-named, however, are but seldom seen at the

tables of the wealthy ; and thus far the demand

for the productions of gallant little Wales have

not been in any great request, although the

demand is said to be equal to the supply.

Sherry, the " sack "which was said to cheer the

heart of Sir John FalstafF and other of Shake

speare's heroes, is, like port, a light of other days.

Like thewine ofPortugal, also, its exportation has

for many years been in the hands ofEnglish settlers.

The following startling statistics have been

published about these exports, which statistics

speak for themselves : The output to England

in 1891 was 2,135,969 gallons, or sixty-four per