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145

Inundat

– nothing less than a thousand square metres of real Amazonian

rainforest, complete with croc-filled mangroves, anacondas, giant catfish and

dozy capybaras (the world’s largest rodent, the size of a family dog).

Other lower levels of the museum are devoted to

children’s and family

activities

, such as Toca Toca! (Touch Touch!) – handling animals, insects and

plants – Clik (ages 3–6) and Flash (7–10), where science games and experiments

are presented in a fun way.These activities all tend to be held at weekends and

during school holidays – pick up a schedule when you arrive, or check the

website. There are also daily shows in the

planetarium

(Spanish and Catalan

only, but worth experiencing), a great gift shop, and a café-restaurant with

outdoor seating beneath the restored hospital facade.

CosmoCaixa is at c/Teodor Roviralta 47–51, just below the city ring road, the

Ronda del Dalt. The easiest way to get there is by FGC train from Plaça de

Catalunya to

Avinguda del Tibidabo station

, and then walk up the avenue,

turning left just before the ring road (10min) – or the Tramvia Blau or Bus

Turístic can drop you close by.

Tibidabo

If the views from the Castell de Montjuïc are good, those from the heights of

Tibidabo

(550m) – which forms the northwestern boundary of the city – are

legendary. On one of those mythical clear days, you can see across to Montserrat

and the Pyrenees, and out to sea even as far as Mallorca.The very name is based

on this view, taken from the Temptations of Christ in the wilderness, when

Satan led him to a high place and offered him everything that could be seen:

Haec omnia tibi dabo si cadens adoraberis me

(“All these things will I give thee, if

thou wilt fall down and worship me”).

The views aside, what many people make the trip for is the rather wonderful

Parc d’Atraccions

(days and hours vary, check website, but basically June–Sept

& hols Wed–Sun; rest of the year weekends only; closed Jan & Feb; open from

noon until 7–11pm depending on season;

T

932 117 942,

W

www.tibidabo.es

;

Skywalk ticket €11, full admission €24, plus family/discount tickets), Barcelona’s

funfair, that’s been thrilling the citizens for over a century. The self-styled

“magic mountain” is a mix of traditional rides and a few more high-tech attrac-

tions, laid out around several levels of the mountaintop, connected by landscaped

paths and gardens. Some of the more famous attractions are grouped under the

“Skywalk Promenade” ticket, including the aeroplane ride, a Barcelona institu-

tion that’s been spinning since 1928, the carousel and the Museu d’Autòmates,

a collection of coin-operated antique fairground machines in working order.

There are amazing views from everywhere, and they are even more extensive if

you climb the shining steps of the neighbouring

Templo Expiatorio de

España

to the dramatic, wide balcony. Inside the church, also known as the

Sagrat Cor (Sacred Heart), a lift (

ascensor

; daily 10am–2pm & 3–7pm; €2) takes

you higher still, to just under the feet of Christ, from where the city, surrounding

hills and sea shimmer in the distance.

Practicalities

Getting there can be a convoluted matter but it is also half the fun, since you’ll

need to combine several forms of transport. It takes up to an hour, all told, from

the city centre.

THE NORTHERN SUBURBS

|

Tibidabo