The Rough Guide to Barcelona 8 (Rough Guide Travel Guides)

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It’s not just about the food
It’s hardly surprising that, in a city that looks so good, restaurateurs have turned to
some of Barcelona’s extraordinary modernista buildings as backdrops to their
businesses. Most famous is probably El Quatre Gats (c/Montsió 3, Barri Gòtic,
T933 024 140, W ), the richly furnished old tavern that was the haunt
of Picasso and his contemporaries. Now it’s a mainstream Catalan restaurant and bar
aimed squarely at tourists – the set lunch is your best bet for a reasonably priced
meal here, which will give you plenty of time to take in the remarkable decor. That’s
also the case at the Hotel España (c/Sant Pau 9–11, El Raval, T933 181 758,
W , where an amazing tiled dining room and elaborate Art
Nouveau flourishes await expectant diners. Meanwhile, one of the best nights out is
the glam experience at Casa Calvet (c/de Casp 48, Eixample, T 934 124 012,
W ), the wonderfully decorated townhouse that a young Antoni
Gaudí built for a Catalan industrialist. Of the three, this is the only one with a serious
reputation for its food – modern Catalan cuisine, and especially known for its
desserts – where you can’t expect much change out of €100.
charge you can level at the handsome space
that is Out of China. The black tables, red
chairs, frilly lanterns and jazz-lounge sounds
set the tone for a contemporary Chinese
menu that’s particularly notable for its
vegetarian options – wok-fried aubergine with
market greens or tofu curry sit alongside
soya chicken in ginger or crispy pork. The
food doesn’t always hit the heights, but the
lunchtime menú is a good deal and even at
night prices won’t break the bank, with most
dishes in the €8–10 range. Mon–Sat 1–4pm
& 8pm–midnight, Sun 1–4pm.
El Racó d’en Balta c/Aribau 125 T934 531 044,
W MProvença. This is
a very funky place to eat, with a vibrant
colour- and sculpture-splashed interior that
petty much defies description. The weekday
lunch is a good deal, otherwise you can eat
for around €25 from a Mediterranean
market-led menu; at night, the local hipsters
lend the bar a certain style. Mon–Thurs
1–3.45pm & 9–11pm, Fri 1–3.45pm &
9–11.30pm, Sat 9–11.30pm; closed 1 week
in Jan, 3 weeks in Aug & Easter.
Very expensive
Cinc Sentits c/Aribau 58 T933 239 490,
W ; MPasseig de Gràcia/
Universitat. Dishes are assembled with great
flair in this renowned contemporary “tasting
kitchen” and though some find the whole
experience a bit overly formal there’s no
doubting the skill at the “Five Senses”. Fish
with black-olive compôte and lemon
marmalade is a typical offering, with most
mains costing €20–25, though various
tasting menus (from €65) are the best way
to get the measure of the place. Mon
1.30–3.30pm, Tues–Sat 1.30–3.30pm &
8.30–11pm.
Gaig c/Aragó 214 T 934 291 017, Wwww
; M Passeig de Gràcia/
Universitat. The Gaig family restaurant was
first founded in 1869 out in the Horta neigh-
bourhood, but under fourth-generation
family member, Carles Gaig, it has now
found a sleek downtown home at the Hotel
Cram. It’s had a towering reputation (and a
Michelin star) for years for quality reinterpre-
tations of traditional Catalan dishes, so a
typical arròs (rice) dish might combine foie
gras, endive and citrus flavour. When
starters can cost €35, and the menú
degustació is €100 or so, you’re talking
about a true special-occasion place, and
reservations are essential. Mon 9–11pm,
Tues–Sat 1–3.30pm & 9–11pm; closed
three weeks in Aug.
Gràcia
For locations, see map, p.134.
Inexpensive
Flash, Flash c/de la Granada del Penedès
25 T932 370 990, W www.grup7portes
.com; M Diagonal. A classic 1970s survivor,
Flash, Flash does tortillas (most around
€5–8) – served any way you like, from plain
and simple to elaborately stuffed or doused
in salsa, with sweet ones for dessert. If that
doesn’t grab you, there’s a small menu of
salads, soups and burgers. Either way,
CAFÉS, TAPAS BARS AND RESTAURANTS
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Restaurants