The Rough Guide to Barcelona 8 (Rough Guide Travel Guides)

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picked out below are all covered more fully
in the guide. The main local supermarket
chain is Caprabo ( W ),
which has a useful branch in the Mercat
de la Barceloneta, though most other
branches are located in residential neigh-
bourhoods, away from the tourist sights.
The most convenient downtown super-
market is that in the basement of El Corte
Inglés (Pl. de Catalunya), and there’s also
the fairly basic Carrefour Express at
Ramblas 113.
Daily food markets
Mercat de la Barceloneta Pl. de la Font,
Barceloneta; MBarceloneta.
Mercat de la Concepció c/de Valencia, Dreta de
l’Eixample; M Passeig de Gràcia.
Mercat de la Llibertat Pl. de la Llibertat, Gràcia;
M Fontana.
Mercat Sant Antoni Ronda de Sant Pau/Ronda
de Sant Antoni, El Raval; M Sant Antoni.
Mercat Sant Josep/La Boqueria Ramblas;
M Liceu.
Mercat Santa Caterina Avgda. Francesc Cambó
16, Sant Pere; MJaume I.
Specialist food stores
La Botifarreria de Santa Maria c/Santa
Maria 4, La Ribera T933 199 123;
M Jaume I. If you ever doubted the power of
the humble Catalan pork sausage, drop by
this designer temple-deli where otherwise
beautifully behaved locals jostle at the
counter for the day’s home-made botifarra,
plus rigorously sourced hams, cheeses,
pâtés and salamis. There are even branded
T-shirts for true disciples.
Bubó c/Caputxes 10, La Ribera T932 687 224,
W ; M Jaume I. There are
chocolates and then there are Bubó choco-
lates – extraordinary creations by pastry and
chocolate maestro Carles Mampel. The very
classy shop (with tastings and drinks de
rigueur) is complemented by Bubó ’s
minimalist new-wave tapas place, Bubobar,
next door at no. 6.
Casa Gispert c/Sombrerers 23, La Ribera T933
197 535, W ; M Jaume I.
Roasters of nuts, coffee and spices for over
150 years – it’s a truly delectable store with
some tantalizing smells, and there are
gourmet deli items available too.
A Casa Portuguesa c/Verdi 58, Gràcia
T933 68 525, W www.acasaportuguesa
.com; MFontana. A sleek deli-café-cum-gallery
on Gràcia’s buzziest street showcases the
food, wine and culture of Portugal. It’s a great
place to pop in for a coffee after trawling the
designer and streetwear stores of Carrer Verdi
– they make Portuguese specialities daily
(including the famous pasteis de Belém, little
custard tarts), and have a full programme of
wine tastings, food festivals and other events.
Closed Mon.
Colmado Quilez Rambla de Catalunya 63,
Esquerra de l’Eixample T932 152 356;
M Passeig de Gràcia. A dying breed now, this
classic Catalan grocery has windows and
shelves piled high with tins, preserves,
bottles, jars and packets, plus a groaning
xarcuteria counter.
Formatgeria La Seu c/Daguería 16,
Barri Gòtic T 934 126 548, W www
; M Jaume I. The best
farmhouse cheeses from independent
producers all over Spain. The owner, who’s
Scottish, will introduce you into the world
of cheese at one of the regular cheese-
and-wine tastings, or you can simply try
before you buy. Closed Mon & Aug.
Jamonísimo c/Provença 85, Esquerra de
l’Eixample T 934 390 847, W www.jamonisimo
.com; M Hospital Clinic. When Ferran Adrià,
Heston Blumenthal and other kitchen
maestros are in town, this is where they
come to taste and buy the world’s finest,
artisan-made cured hams.
Papabubble c/Ample 28, Barri Gòtic T932 688
625, W ; M Drassanes.
Groovy young things rolling out home-made
candy to a chill-out soundtrack. Come and
watch them at work, sample a sweetie, and
take home a gorgeously wrapped gift.
Closed Mon & Aug.
Wine
Vila Viniteca c/Agullers 7 & 9, La Ribera T937
777 017, W ; M Barceloneta.
Very knowledgeable specialist in Catalan
and Spanish wines. Pick your vintage and
then nip over the road for the gourmet deli
part of the operation.
Markets
Antiques Avgda. de la Catedral, Barri Gòtic;
M Jaume I. Every Thurs from 9am; closed
Aug. The tourist location outside the
cathedral attracts high prices. Better for
bargains is the market on the Port Vell
harbourside (M Barceloneta) at weekends
SHOPPING
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Food and drink • Markets