155 / 184
HISTORICAL
155
one connoisseur who has since spent hundreds of thousands
in collecting paintings and sculpture, got his first tuition from
the pictures on the Bar walls, whose appeal was often em–
phasized by the cumulative influence of cocktails or high–
balls.
More than one middle-aged or elderly American who
has survived the era that saw bootlegging grow into. one
of our most important industries, has reason to remember
gratefully at least one feature of this particular American
School of Drinking, and in which, perhaps, it was preemi–
nent among institutions of similar learning. This was the
free lunch table. There are many rich .men in this land to–
day, who, were they frank, could date their first acquaint–
ance with Russian caviar to that generous board. There,
too, many of them
~rst
learned of the superb succulence
of Virginia "vintage" ham. As a matter of fact, the exoteric
could there give the "once-over" to delicacies they had
never before seen-or even imagined. No menu in puz–
zling French to mystify or confuse. The uninitiate saw
what he saw, and what he fancied he could sample at his
leisure. And spread out for his delectation-for he was free
to choose, and to whatever extent-wc::re light and savory
canapes, thirst-provoking anchovies in various-tinted guises,
and other delicacies; and there were substantial slices of
beef or ham, ordinary as well as
Virgin~a,
and a wonder–
ful assortment of cheeses of ·robust odors; not forgetting
the crisp radishes and sprightly, delicate spring onions, and
olives stuffed and unstuffed.
The temporary addicts of the lunch table were never
disturbed, or rarely. Their meal ticket depended merely
upon good conduct-supported, of course, by a good front.
The occasional investment of a quarter in a bottle of beer