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19

PITMASTER

’QUE TIPS

Talk to any seasoned barbecue, and you’ll

pick up plenty of tips to up your personal

pork-smoking game. Talk with Orrison

— who calls himself the “Head ShedHed”

and leader of his joint’s loyal fan base —

and you’ll learn to never put cold meat in

a smoker, stay away from green or damp

woods and, most important, layer your rub

to build complex, savory flavors.

“The salt goes on the meat first, because

that’s your base,” said Orrison. “Then you

add the heat — cayenne pepper, chili powder

and turmeric. Then you come back later in

the cooking process with a mix of sweet and

savory — usually brown sugar and celery

seed. This way, when you bite into the meat

you get sweet and savory, then spice.”

Orrison’s best tip? Get a meat thermometer.

As you learn your way around the

complex world of mixing meat and fire,

a thermometer will be your best friend.

Whether you’re cooking a 10-pound brisket

or grilling chicken breasts, reading the

numbers will get you closer to perfect meat

than just “eyeballing it.”

The Shed’s competition team of 15 regulars

includes his sister Brooke Lewis (the

Princess of Pork), other family members

(Mama Shed, Poppa Shed and Daddy O),

Hobson Cherry (senior pit master), and

Mr. Jim (the restaurant’s first customer and

team’s Official Beer Drinker). Over the

years, The Shed’s ragtag crew have racked

up over 140 awards in just over a decade on

the competitive circuit.

Back in Ocean Springs, the group works

and plays together. Brad and sister Brooke

built the original Shed location — a 300-

foot structure made out scrap metal, lumber

and “collectible junk” Orrison had collected

over the years — which lasted until a fire

destroyed it in 2012. Four months later

they’d rebuilt and reopened, bigger and

better, in a new space with a treasure trove

of junk from every corner of the Earth,

much of it donated by loyal ShedHeds.

GET FED AT THE SHED

Die-hard smoked meat fans from all over

the Gulf Coast — these ShedHeads —

hit the restaurant for slabs of ribs, chicken

wangs, G-maw’s Famous Beans, Daddy O’s

Creamy Cole Slaw and Momma Mia’s Mac

Salad. Whole hog barbecue — a restaurant

specialty — is always on the menu, and the

other

kind of H.O.G.s — the two-wheeled,

gas-burning variety — are often in the

parking lot. The Shed’s location — just

a short hop off Interstate 10 — makes it

popular with the motorcycle folks.

“The restaurant is just off the beaten path,

so we’re an easy ride from anywhere,” says

Orrison. “If you leave Baton Rouge on your

Harley at 8 a.m., it’s a 3-hour trip; you’ll be

there when we open.”

When it comes to meat (the most important

part of a barbecue joint) it’s pretty tough

to go wrong. The brisket is smoked for 14

hours on pecan wood, which is native to the

South. The coarse-ground sausage they use

comes from Country Pleasin’ in Florence,

Mississippi. “We cook the sausage over

medium heat in a hot smoker with coals

made out of sharp wood like oak or cherry.

When it hits a temperature of 165, we’ll

take it out, slice it flat like it’s going on a

po-boy, add sauce or seasoning, then put it

back so it caramelizes down.”

Baby back ribs are cooked for five to six hours,

spare ribs for four hours. Both racks are done

at 250 degrees (about 25 degrees hotter than

normal home smoking temperatures). “That

temperature works at the restaurant if we

need to add chicken or sausage to the pit.”

You want to test the skill of a pit master?

Taste the barbecue without the sauce first.

But if you pass on the sauce at The Shed,

you’ll be missing out. Orrison’s sauces have

won 98 different national awards and range

from Original Southern Sweet and Spicy

Sweet to Spicy Mustard and Spicy Vinegar.

(All are available on the shelves at Rouses,

along with the marinades for beef, pork and

poultry, a Cluckin’ Awesome Poultry Rub

and Rack Attack Rib Rub.)

Orrison has one more tip. “I’m not gonna lie

— if you get pork loin or pork chop at Rouses,

marinate it in our pork marinade, and grill it

or reverse-sear it, it’s gonna be great.Then if

you go one step further and sandwich with

Rouses garlic bread, and add some onions

with butter and bacon crumbles, some sort of

spicy mayonnaise, God forbid a hot pickle ...

aw man, that’s good. I want one right now.”