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170

What Shall We Drink?

These should be almost axiomatic guides. For instance,

one does not (or should not) drink as large a quantity of

sweet wines as the "dry" wines; hence the smaller glasses.

Too much sweetness cloys in using wines as well as in eating

candies, and one is hkely to suffer a "sour"feehng afterward.

The "dry" wines, to the contrary, are more easily as

similated and hence predominate at the dinner, except for

the sparkhng types, which may be used almost abundantly

to start the merriment and conviviahty with which they al

ways are associated.

In serving cordials and liqueurs this rule of small quantity

is virtually dictated by the size of the cordial glass. Never

should more than an ounce and a half of these beverages be

served at the meal. Cordials really take the place of sweets

and should be sipped with exquisite relish, hardly more than

moistening the hps at each raising of the glass.

After the dinner and the cordials, there is no reason why

sweet wines should not be imbibed, if one Hkes them better

than the "dry," but the general preference seems to be for

the effervescent and joy-making Champagnes and sparkhng

Burgundies.

If I may have seemed harsh toward colored bowls in

wine glassware, it is because that type is a barbaric result

and product of the Prohibition era, when good taste went to

smash and monstrosities, both in drinks and in eating habits,

thrust themselves upon the social amenities. They often

disguised evil beverages which came from the darloiess of

bootlegging and hi-jackery.

Of course, they are dehghtfully informal and appear

pretty before being filled with wine. After ah, one may do

anyt^ng one chooses at informal affairs. But for the formal

meal, in the name of all that culture means, avoid colored

bowls as you would the plagueI