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For Sergei, the explanation is simple. “Ten years ago, there were two

poachers in my village of some 350 people. Now it’s a rare thing not to

be a poacher. Collective farms and factories are closed, and people must

make a living,” he says. However, besides the “social poaching” mostly

tolerated by the state because of rampant unemployment, “commercial

poaching” also takes its toll on the sturgeon resources. It was

that underground industry that President Vladimir Putin labelled as

“monstrous” during his recent visit to the region. This kind of

poacher generally has a high-speed motor boat, sonar detectors and

even special buoys that allow them to keep track of their nets with

satellite positioning technology.

“How are we supposed to catch them?” asks Yury Tolstov of the public

agency tasked with taking care of the sturgeon population in the

Volga delta. “They have Yamaha and Johnson motor boats, each with at

least 100 horsepower. We have only one boat,” he complains. However,

small-scale poachers have a more cynical explanation, saying that

the illegal caviar industry is well protected by accomplices in high

places and has efficient export routes.

Officials are nevertheless cautiously optimistic as to the final outcome

of their losing battle. The sturgeon population increased last year and

the endangered fish was once again seen near cities such as Volgograd,

Tolstov assured us. In addition, Tolstov’s agency has released 50m baby

sturgeon bred in captivity, and plans an operation to pave the way for

sturgeons attempting to move up river in May. He takes particular pride

in a novel technique which would allow roe to be removed from female

fish without killing them and used to breed more sturgeons rather than

delighting gourmet diners in New York or Tokyo.

Tolstov’s quarrel is with a CITES-brokered moratorium on fishing Beluga

sturgeon passed last June by Russia, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan and

Azerbaijan, but lifted in March after eight months. “This will benefit

only poachers,” he scoffed. In any case, poaching – which, according to

CITES, accounts for 90% of the caviar trade – has not slackened since,

and caviar is on sale in Astrakhan markets for some $80 a kilogram,

twice the price asked in the delta’s many villages, but still half as

much as in downtown supermarkets.

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