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wines
became
practically
obsolete,
and any
wines
cominp
from
there
were
generally
supposed
to
be
sparkling.
Cradiially,
however,
other
provinces
and
countries
began
to
produce
spark-
ling
wines,
and
became
known
to
everybody
as
Champagne,
whether
made
in
Bordeaux
or
Borgougne
province,
or
America,
Germany,
Italy
or
Austria.
At
the
same
time,
the
original
houses
were
growing
in
size
rapidly
and
continuously,
and
their
capacities
grew
until
now
some
of
the
large
hou.ses
of
France
have
stocks
of
11^,000,000
bottles.
Thirteen
millions
is
easily
said,
but
when
one
stops
to
realizt'
what
enormous
space
1,000,000
bottles
will
retjuire,
and
then multiply
it
by
thirteen,
.same
.seems
almost
an
absurdity,
especially
when
the
elaborate
process
and
long
time
it
re(iuires
is
taken
into
consideration.
We
have
also
cellars
in
America
with
capacities
of
from
500,000
to
2,000,(100,
all
made
on
the
same
process,
and
with
the
same
elaborate
care.
None
but
the
choicest of
grapes
are
used,
and
only
from
.selected
locations.
When
the
vintage
season
arrives
they
are
hauled
to
the
winery,
where
they
are
pressed
and
the
juice
run
off
into
large
casks
to
ferment.
So
far
the
process
has
been
very
simple,
but
now
the
Chamiiagne
expert
gets
in
his
work
and
intelligence,
blending
the
various
juices,
so
as
to
make
one
cuvee, or
homogeneous
mass,
perfect
in
taste,
color,
acidity
and
bouquet.
After
the
cuvee
is
made
it
is
ready
for
bottling,
where
the
second
fermentation
takes
place.
When
fermented
they
are
lowered
into
the
cellars
to
cool
off
and
ri])en.
The
ripening
period
usually
takes
two and
one-half
to
three
years,
after
which
time
the
now
Champagne
can
be
put
on
the
market
if
necessary,
but
the
first-class
cellars
rarely
attempt
to
put
their
brands
out
before
four
or
five
years.
When
the
wine
is
bottle
ripe
it
is
put
on
tables
"surpointe;"
that
is,
the
bottles
are
all
neck
down.
After
it
has
repo.sed
on
the
tables
for
twenty-
four
hours
the
"remeuer"
i)roceeds
with
his
daily
<)])eration
of
iiandling
each
bottle
by
giving
it
a
rotary
shake
for
two
to
six
weeks,
at
the
end
of
which
lime
the
wine
is
sui)pos('d
to
be
crystal
clear,
the
sediment
formed
by
fermentation
having
been
worked
down
to
the
cork.
The
next
operation
is
the
disgorging
or
taking
out
the
sedi-
ment.
This
is
done
neatly,
easily,
and
with
little
lo.ss
of
wine
or
sparkle
by
experienced
men,
and
the
syrup
is
then
added.
Before
adding
any
.syrup
the
wine
is
tart
and
is
called
"Brut,"
meaning
raw.
The
amount
of
.syrup
added
usually
designates
the
grade
thereof,
under
the
names
Sweet,
Medium,
Extra
Dry
or
Special
Dry,
etc.
The
bottle
is
then
recorked
with
a
new
and
expensive
finishing
cork,
which
is
fastened
down
by
means
of a
jjronged
wire,
and
the
bottle
is
then
ready
for
the
packing
room,