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five

arrondissementa

of

tlie

Department

of

Champagne,

where

Champagne

grapes

are

grown

:

Chalons

sur

Marne,

Eperney,

Rheims, Sainte-Mene

Hould

and

Vitry-le-Francois,

but

the

right

to

the

name

of

genuine

French

Champagne

is

now

limited

to

the

wine

made

from

the

grapes

of

Rheims

and

Eperney.

In

general

parlance,

when

the

wine

of

the

Champagne

dis-

trict

is

referred

to,

the

sparkling

wine

is

meant,

yet,

in

this

same

district,

still

wines

are

made

that

are

claimed

by

some

to

be

the

best

in

France.

At

one

time

there

was

quite a

contro-

ver.sy

as

to

whether

the

still

wines

fi

m

Champagne

or

Bur-

gundy

wines

were

the

better.

Of

the

red

wines

grown

at

Rheims,

the

two

finest

are

the

Rilly

and

Bouzy.

The

Sauterne

district

comprises

a

portion

of

the

Depart-

ment

of

Gironde

and

jiart

of

the

Medoc,

and

is

called

in

France

the

Graves.

The

soil

here

consists

of

.sand

and

gravel,

mixed

with

more

or

less

clay,

so

that

one

would

hardly

expect

to

have

such

luxuriant

vines

as

produce

the

popular

Sauterne

wines.

It

is

from

another

part

of

the

Gironde,

where,

likewise,

the

soil

would

appear

to

be

almost

worthless, that

the

Medoc

wines,

or

Clarets,

as

we know

them,

are

produced.

The

most

famous

red

wines

of

France

ai'e

those

from

the

Burgundy

district,

and

known

by

this

name.

The

vines

are

grown

on

the

Cote

d'

Or,

which

is

a

chain

of

hills

averaging

from

800

to

1,000

feet

in

height.

For

thirty

miles

the

vineyards

extend

in

one

continuous

row

on

the

sides

of

these

hills.

The

soil

is

of

yellowish

red,

accounting

for the

name

of

the

district,

and

Burgundy

is

probably

the

oldest

wine-producing

district

in

entire

Europe.

One

authority

gives

his

views

of

the best

Bur-

gundy

wine

in

the

following

language

:

"In

richness

of

flavor,

and

in

perfume,

and

all

the

more

delicate

qualities

of

the

grape,

they

unquestionably

rank

as

the

finest

in

the

world."

The

Department

of

the

Pyrenees

Orientales

is

another

where

vineyards

in

full

leaf

and

all

their

beauty

may

be

seen

stretching

out mile

after

mile,

both on

the

level

land

and

on

the

hillsides.

Here,

the

very

drie.st

and,

likewise,

the

sweetest

of

wines

are

made

in

the

same

neighborhood.

The

dry

wine,

known

as

Grenache

wine,

which,

through

a

peculiar

process

of

manufacture,

partakes

more

of

the

nature

of a

liqueur,

is

laid

away

in

cellars

for

many

years

before

it

is

said

to

be

really

fit

for

use.

From

the

same

neighborhood

comes

Muscat

wine,

which

is

very

sweet,

and

for the

first

year

is

like

a

syrup,

Init,

after

the

second

year,

becomes

clear

and

acquires

the

bouquet

which

has

given

it

its

reputation.

Maccabeo

and

Malvoysie

are

two

more

liqueur

wines

made

in

this

vicinity,

and

a

large

num-

ber

of

other

wines,

also

grown

in

this

department,

are

classified

under

the

name

of

Rousillion

wines.

According

to

an

old

narrative,

on

the

left

border

of

the

Rhone,

in

the

commune

of

Tain,

one

of

the

Queen's

courtiers,