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72

DRINKS

A

LA

MODE

moved.

A

principal

vat

of

the

best

fruit,

which

is

called

cuve-mere^

is

then

made,

into

which,

after

packing,

the

workmen

continue

to

put

the

best

grapes

without

their

stalks

and

without

treading

them,

till

they

are

from

fifteen

to

twenty

inches

deep,

after

which

they

throw

about

two

gallons

of

old

cognac

upon

them,

and

then

another

bed

of

picked

grapes,

followed

by

two

gallons

more

of

brandy,

and

so

on

till

the vat

is

full.

About

four

gallons

of

spirit

of

wine

is

then

added

for

a

wine-

vat

from

thirty

to

thirty-six

tuns.

When

there

is

a

deficiency

of saccharine

matter

in

the

grapes

starch-sugar

is

sometimes

added.

The

cuve-viere

when

filled

is

closed

and

well

covered

with

blankets

to

prevent

the

entrance

of

air,

and

is

left

in

this

state

for

about

a

month.

A

small

cock

or

tap

is

placed

in

the

side

of

the

vat

at

about

a

third

of

its

depth

from

the

bottom,

in

order

to

allow

of the

progress

of

fermentation

being

observed,

and

to

enable

the

manufacturer

to

know

when

the

wine,

having

become

cool

and

sufficiently

clear,

may

be

racked

off

and

put

into

casks.

While

the

cuve-mere

is

at

work

the

ordinary

vintage

goes

on

as

follows

:

The

grapes

are

trodden

or

acted

on

by

machinery

in

the

press

and

put

with

their

stalks

into

the

vats

;

then

the

fermenta-

tion

takes

place

naturally.

About

a

foot

of

the

upper

part

of

the

vat

is

not

filled,

in

order

to

leave

space

for

the

fermentation,

which

in

very

mature

vintages

sometimes

occasions

an

overflow

of

these

limits.

The

term

chapeau

is

applied

to

the

floating

mass

of

stalks

lightly

covered,

and

in

from

a

week

to

a

fortnight

the

wine

is

ready

for

being

drawn

off,

for

if

it

is

left

upon

the

lees

(marre)

or

in

con-

tact

with

its

crust

(chapeau)

it

would

take

the

dis-