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76

DRINKS

A

LA

MODE

so

as to

strengthen

the

product

of

a

weaker

vintage.

'

The

Mendings

practised

by

French

merchants

have

not

for

their

object

an

imitation

of

the

leading

growths

of

their

vineyards,

but

simply

to

correct

defects

in

particular

samples,

or

to

obtain

by

this

means

a

quality

that

will

suit

the

consumer

at

a

price

less

onerous

than

that

demanded

for

the

finest

quality.

'The

difference

between

good

and

genuine

high-class

wines

and

those

so

mixed

is

sometimes

such

as

to

make

the

latter

preferred

by

those

who

judge

from

primary

and

transient

impressions.'

In

all

good

wine

tartar

precipitates

itself

in

the

form

of

small

crystals

;

it

does

not

render

it

cloudy

nor

does

it

impart

any

bad

taste,

but

helps

to

sustain

it

in

good

condition.

The

Care

of

Wine.

Wines

of

strength

intended

to

mellow

in

the

wood

should

be

put

into

the

largest

barrels,

but

those

of

delicate

and

light

growth

should

be

stored

in

smaller

vessels,

and

should

be

bottled

as

soon

as

they

attain

a

suitable

condition,

for

they

do

not

gain

anything

by

remaining

in

the

cask.

The

preservation

and

amelioration

of

wine

in

bottle

depends

upon

its

maturity

in

the

wood

and

its

freedom

from

all

mucilaginous

impurities.

The

requisite

time

to

bring

them

to

their

perfect

maturity

is

proportionate

to

the

needed

time

for

their

complete

development.

When

wines

cease

to

deposit,

they

cease

to

improve

and

begin

to

deteriorate.

Those

that

are

in

perfection

at

the