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there
were
generally
supposed
to
be
sparkling.
Gradually,
hoAvever,
other
provinces
and
eountri.es
began
to
produce
spark-
ling
wines,
and
became
known
to
everybody
as
Champagne,
whether
made
in
Bordeaux
or
Borgougne
province,
or
America,
Germany,
Italy
or
Au
stria.
At
the
same
time,
the
original
bouses
were growing
in
size
rapidly
and
continu
où
sly,
and
their
capacities
grew
until
now
some
of
the
large
houses
of
France
have
stocks
of
13,000,000
bottles.
Thirteen
millions
is
easily
said,
but
when
one
stops
to
realize
what
enormons
space
1,000,000
bottles
will
require,
and
then multiply
it
by
thirteen,
same
seenis
almost
an
absurdity,
especially
when
the
élabora
te
process
and
long
time
it
requires
is
taken
into
considération.
We
have
also
cellars
in
America
with
capacities
of
from
500,000
to
2,000,000,
ail
made
on
the
same
process,
and
with
the
same
elaborate
care.
No
ne
but
the
choicest
of
grapes
are
used,
and
only
from
selected
locations.
When
the
vintage
season
arrives
tliey
are
hauied
to
the
winery,
where
they
are
pressed
and
the
juice
run
off
into
large
casks
to
ferment.
So
far
the
process
lias
been
very
single,
but
now
the
Champagne
expert
gets
in
his
work
and
intelligence,
blending
the
various
juices,
so
as
to
make
one
cuvée, or
homogeneous
mass,
iierfect
in
taste,
color,
acidity
and
bouquet.
After
the
cuvée
is
made
it
is
ready
for
bottling,
where
the
second
fermentation
takes
place.
When
fermented
they
are
lowered
into
the
cellars
to
cool
off
and
ripen.
The
ripening
period
usually
takes
two
and
one-half
to
three
years,
after
which
time
the
now
Champagne
can
be
put on
the
market
if
necessary,
but
the
first-class
cellars
rarely
attempt
to
put
their
brands
out
before
four
or
five
years.
When
the
wine
is
bottle
ripe
it
is
put
on
tables
"surpointe
;"
that
is,
the
bottles
are
ail
neck
down.
After
it
has
reposed
on
the
tables
for
twenty-
four
hours
the
"remeuer"
proceeds
with
his
daily
opération
of
handling
each
bottle
by
giving
it
a
rotary
shake
for
two
to
six
weekSj
at
the
end
of
which
time
the
wine
is
supposed
to
be
crystal
clear,
the
sédiment
formed
by
fermentation
having
been
worked
down
to
the
cork.
The
next
opération
is
the
disgorging
or
taking out
the
sédi-
ment.
This
is
done
neatly,
easily,
and
with
little
loss
of
wine
or
sparkle
by
experienced
men,
and
the
syrup
is
then
added.
Before
adding
an
y
syrup
the
wine
is
tart
and
is
called
"Brut,"
meaning
raw.
The
ara
omit
of
syrup
added
usually
désignâtes
the
grade
thereof,
under
the
names
Sweet,
Médium,
Extra
Dry
or
Spécial
Dry,
etc.
The
bottle
is
then
recorked
with
a
new
and
expensive
finishing
cork,
which
is
fastened
down
by
means
of
a
pronged
wire,
and
the
bottle
is
then
ready
for
the
packing
room,
where
it
is
again
piled
up
for
a
week
or
so
to
repose
and
assimilate.
When
needed
for
market,
each
bottle
is
examined
with