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of

the

grapes,

as

every

bunch

lias

to

be

carefully

examined,

and

unless

it

is

found

perfect

in

every

respect,

it

is

not

used

for

the

finer

qualities.

It

lias

been

computed

that

the

average

expense

of

cultiva-

tion

is

front

250

to

300

francs

per

hnndred

(twenty-four

dozen),

it

cannot,

therefore,

be

wondered

at

that

gennine

Sauternes

cannot

be

obtained

as

cheaply

as

some

of

the

Ked

Wines

of

France.

In

classifying

Sauternes,

it

is

undoubtedly

a

fact

that

the

wines

of

the

Château

d'Yquem,

Château

La

Tour

Blanche,

Châ-

teau

Vigneau,

Château

Kabaud,

and

Château

Suduiraut

take

the

foremost

rank,

and,

next

to

thèse

in

the

order

given,

corne

the

Haut

Sauternes,

Sauternes,

Barsac

and

Graves.

Ail

Sauternes

are

sweet

or

sweetish

in

character,

but

the

excess

of

sweetness

disappears

considerably

with

a

few

years

of

"bottle

âge."

As

"table

wines,'-

Sauternes

are

eminently

suitable.

They

are

délicate

in flavor

and

stimulate

the

appetite.

In

alcoholic

strength

they

are

far

below

Sherries,

but

they

are,

nevertheless,

exhilarating

and

sustaining.

They

are

especially

suitable

to

be

served

with

oysters

and

fish.

In

order

to

préserve

their

full

aroma,

Sauternes,

and

es-

pecially

the

finer

qualifies,

should

not

be

"iced;"

a

médium

température

will

be

sufficient

to

préserve

ail

their

character-

istics.

As

"dessert

wines"

they

are

simply

perfect.

A

glass

or

two

of

high-class

"vintage"

Sau

terne

at

the

end

of

a

meal

will

not

only

aid

digestion,

but

will

warm

the

whole

System

and

diffuse

a

feeling

of

lightness

and

of

comfort.

From

a

médicinal

stanclpoint,

the

white

wines

of

France

rank

foremost.

For

dyspepsia

they

are

invaluable.

White

wines

contain

less

tannin,

tartrates

and

iron

than

red

wines,

but

more

acetic

ether.

Whilst

containing

the

same

quantity

of

alcohol

as

the

red

wines,

their

action

is

more

"heady"

and

more

exhilarating.

For

obesity,

especially,

and

affections

of

the

liver,

they

are

most

emphatically

efficacious.

The

sweeter

Sauternes,

Château

La

Tour

Blanche,

Yquem,

Kabaud,

Vigneau,

etc.,

possessing

a

greater

alcoholic

strength,

will

be

found

most

bénéficiai

in

cases

of

exhaustion,

nervous

prostration,

hemorrhage,

and

in

ail

cases

of

mental

.or

bodily

fatigue.

As

dessert

wines

they

are

not

only

delicious,

but

they

greatly

aid

the

digestion

and

impart

a

cheerful

glow

to

the

System.

For

further

médical

évidence

regarding

Sauternes,

I

quote

Dr.

Mauriac,

of

Bordeaux.

He

says

in

one

of his

works

: