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DRINKS.

125

mentioned

his

scale

of

liquors

:

Claret

for

boys

port

for

men

brandy

for

heroes.

'Then,'

said

Mr.

Burke,

'

let

me

have

claret

;

I

love

to

be

a

boy

;

to

have

the

careless

gaiety of

boyish

days,'

Johnson

:

'

1

should

drink

claret

too,

if

it

would

give

me

that

;

but

it

does

not

;

it

neither

makes

boys

men,

nor

men

boys.

You'll

be

drowned

in

it

before

it

has

any

effect

upon

you.'

"

But

it

was

the

spirit

always

drunk

by

gentlemen

until

well

on

in

this

century,

as

we

see

by

Mr.

Pick-

wick,

whose

constant

resource

in

all

cases

of

difficulty,

was

a

glass

of

brandy.

Pale

brandy

was

not

so

much

drank

as

brown,

which

is

now

only

taken,

when

very

old,

as

a

liqueur,

although

a

brown

brandy

of

very

dubious

quality

is

to

be

met

with

in

some

country

public

houses.

Brandy,

like

every

other

spirit,

de-

velopes

its

ethers

with

age,

gets

mellower,

and

of

exquisite

flavour;

and

its

popularity

would

undoubtedly

be

revived

if

the

drinker

were

only

sure

he

could

get

such

brandy

as

the

many

starred

brands

of

Hennessy

and

Martell,

instead

of

that

awful

substitute

so

often

given

British

brandy,

made

of

raw

potato

spirit.

The

soil

of

the

Charente

slope

is

particularly

adapted

to

the

growth

of the

vine,

although,

as

in

all

vine-

growing

countries

some

districts,

and

even

small

patches

of

land,

produce

finer

wine

than

others.

The

grapes

are

white,

not

much

larger

than

good-

sized

currants,

and

the

vines

seldom

bear

fruit

until

four

or

five

years

from

their

planting,

and

are

most

vigorous

at

the

age

of

from

ten

to

thirty.

Many

bear

well

up

to

fifty

and

seventy,

and

some

are

fruitful

at

one

hundred

years

or

more.