THE DRINKS OF DICKENS
217
vaguely, by the novelist as " spirits," and tvere,
I shall ever maintain, gin, and not rum, as stated
by other reviewers. The idea of putting rum
on the top of "Newcastle salmon, intensely
pickled," and such a monstrous (to a connoisseur
in these things) salad as that furnished by Mrs.
Prig, is barbaric.
After an experience of the modern roadside
inn, or of the " reserved lounges " of the alcohol-
palaces of to-day, what can be more delightful
reading than the description of the interior of
the " Maypole," in Barnaby Budge ?
" The very snuggest, cosiest, and completest
bar that ever the wit of man devised.
Such
amazing bottles in old oaken pigeon-holes ; such
gleaming tankards hanging from pegs at about
the same inclination as thirsty men would hold
them to their lips ; such sturdy little Dutch kegs
ranged in rows on shelves ; so many lemons
hanging in separate nets, suggestive, with goodly
loaves of sugar stowed away hard by, of punch,
idealized beyond all mortal knowledge, etc. etc."
Hardly an ideal landlord of the past, though,
was old John Willet. A far better stamp of
host was Gabriel Varden, the locksmith, who took
deep draughts of sparkling home-brewedale, from
a goodly jug of well-browned clay, for breakfast,
and who was one of the "Maypole's" best cus
tomers. Mr. Chester—whose interview with his
son will remind the student of Monsieur le Mar
quis's interview with his nephew, in ji Tale of
Two Cities—was a judge of wine, though not
given to over-indulgence in the bowl, like his
bastard. Maypole Hugh ; and Lord George