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THE DRINKS OF DICKENS

217

vaguely, by the novelist as " spirits," and tvere,

I shall ever maintain, gin, and not rum, as stated

by other reviewers. The idea of putting rum

on the top of "Newcastle salmon, intensely

pickled," and such a monstrous (to a connoisseur

in these things) salad as that furnished by Mrs.

Prig, is barbaric.

After an experience of the modern roadside

inn, or of the " reserved lounges " of the alcohol-

palaces of to-day, what can be more delightful

reading than the description of the interior of

the " Maypole," in Barnaby Budge ?

" The very snuggest, cosiest, and completest

bar that ever the wit of man devised.

Such

amazing bottles in old oaken pigeon-holes ; such

gleaming tankards hanging from pegs at about

the same inclination as thirsty men would hold

them to their lips ; such sturdy little Dutch kegs

ranged in rows on shelves ; so many lemons

hanging in separate nets, suggestive, with goodly

loaves of sugar stowed away hard by, of punch,

idealized beyond all mortal knowledge, etc. etc."

Hardly an ideal landlord of the past, though,

was old John Willet. A far better stamp of

host was Gabriel Varden, the locksmith, who took

deep draughts of sparkling home-brewedale, from

a goodly jug of well-browned clay, for breakfast,

and who was one of the "Maypole's" best cus

tomers. Mr. Chester—whose interview with his

son will remind the student of Monsieur le Mar

quis's interview with his nephew, in ji Tale of

Two Cities—was a judge of wine, though not

given to over-indulgence in the bowl, like his

bastard. Maypole Hugh ; and Lord George