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/

An oddity a couple of doors up is the

Museu del Perfum

(Mon–Fri

10.30am–1.30pm & 4.30–8pm, Sat 11am–2pm; €5;

T

932 160 121,

W

www

.museodelperfume.com

), located in the back of the Regia perfume store at Pg.

de Gràcia 39.They may have to turn the lights on for you, but there’s no missing

the exhibits as a rather cloying pong exudes from the room. It’s a private collec-

tion of over five thousand perfume and essence bottles from Egyptian times

onwards, and there are some exquisite pieces displayed, including Turkish

filigree-and-crystal ware and bronze and silver Indian elephant flasks. More

modern times are represented by scents made for Brigitte Bardot, Grace Kelly

and Elizabeth Taylor, and if you’re diligent enough to scan all the shelves you

might be able to track down the perfume bottle designed by Salvador Dalí.

Casa Amatller

Josep Puig i Cadafalch’s striking

Casa Amatller

is at Pg. de Gràcia 41, an

apartment block from 1900 created largely from the bones of an existing

building and paid for by Antoni Amatller, a Catalan chocolate manufacturer, art

THE EIXAMPLE

|

Dreta de l’Eixample