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139

World Cup semi-final to accommodate 98,000 people– a second remodelling

has just been announced, to be overseen by architect Norman Foster. The

stadium provides one of the best football-watching experiences in the world

and the matches can be an invigorating introduction to Catalan passions. The

football season runs from August until May, with games usually played on

Sundays – see p.238 for details on how to get a ticket. The stadium complex

also hosts basketball, handball and hockey games with FC Barcelona’s other

professional teams, and there’s also a public ice rink here.

Together, the stadium and the club’s

Museu del Futbol

(April–Oct

Mon–Sat 10am–8pm, rest of the year until 6.30pm, Sun 10am–3pm; museum

only €8.50, including tour €13;

T

902 189 900 or 934 963 600,

W

www

.fcbarcelona.com

) provide a splendid celebration of Spain’s national sport.

The entrance is on Avinguda Arístides Maillol, through Gates (

Accés

) 7 and 9

(

o

Collblanc/Maria Cristina & 10min walk); the Bus Turístic stops outside.

The all-inclusive ticket allows you on the

self-guided tour

, winding into

the bowels of the stadium, through the changing rooms, out onto the pitch

side and up to the press gallery and directors’ box for stunning views. The

museum

is jammed full of silverware, memorabilia, paintings and sculpture,

while photograph displays and archive footage trace the history of the club

back to 1901. Finally, you’re directed into the

FC Botiga Megastore

, where

you can buy anything from a replica shirt down to a branded bottle

of wine.

Palau Reial de Pedralbes

Opposite the university on Avinguda Diagonal, formal grounds stretch up to the

Italianate

Palau Reial de Pedralbes

(

o

Palau Reial) – basically a large villa with

pretensions. It was built for the use of the royal family on their visits to Barcelona,

with funds raised by public subscription, and received its first such visit in 1926.

However, within five years the king had abdicated and the palace somewhat lost its

role.Franco kept it on as a presidential residence and it later passed to the city,which

now uses its rooms to show off its

applied art collections

. Until the projected

Centre del Disseny (Design Centre) at Glòries is completed – which means for the

foreseeable future – the palace contains separate

museums

of ceramics, decorative

arts, and textiles and clothing (all Tues–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun & hols 10am–3pm,

€4.20, free first Sun of the month), which can be visited on the same ticket; free

first sun of the month.The

gardens

(10am–dusk, free entry),meanwhile, are a calm

oasis, where – hidden in a bamboo thicket, to the left-centre of the facade – is the

“Hercules fountain” (1884), an early work by Antoni Gaudí.

Museu de Ceràmica

The collection at the

Museu de Ceràmica

(

W

www.museuceramica.bcn.cat)

ranges from the thirteenth to the nineteenth century, and includes fine

Moorish-influenced tiles and plates from the Aragonese town of Teruel, as

well as a series of fifteenth- and sixteenth-century

socarrats

(decorated terra-

cotta panels) from Paterno displaying demons and erotic scenes. Catalunya,

too, has a long ceramics tradition, and there are entire rooms here of Catalan

water stoups, jars, dishes, plates and bowls. Perhaps the most vivid examples of

the polychromatic work coming out of Barcelona and Lleida workshops of

THE NORTHERN SUBURBS

|

Palau Reial

de Pedralbes