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162

9am–1pm & 4–7pm, Sat 10am–1pm;

T

938 181 254,

W

www.turismevilafranca

.com). Behind here, in Plaça Jaume I, opposite the much-restored Gothic church

of Santa Maria, the

Museu de Vilafranca

(Tues–Sat 10am–2pm & 4–7pm, Sun

10am–2pm; €3) is housed in a twelfth-century palace and worth visiting largely for

its section on the region’s wine industry.The experience culminates with a visit to

the museum’s tavern for a tasting.

The vineyards of Vilafranca are all out of town, though the largest and best

known,

Torres

(Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 9am–6pm, Sun & hols 9am–1pm;

tours €5;

T

938 177 487,

W

www.torres.es)

, is only a three-kilometre taxi ride

to the northwest, on the Sant Martí de Sarroca road. Also owned by Torres is

boutique winemaker

Jean Leon

(Mon–Sat 9.30am–5.30pm, Sun & hols

9.30am–1pm; tours €6;

T

938 995 512,

W

www.jeanleon.com

) at Torrelavit,

closer to Sant Sadurní, whose American-modernist-inspired visitor centre is set

in particularly bucolic surroundings.

The most agreeable place in town to

wine-taste

is

Inzolia

, c/de la Palma 21

(Mon 5–10pm, Tues–Sat 10am–2pm & 5–10pm;

T

938 181 938,

W

www

.inzolia.com

), just off c/de Sant Joan, where a range of

cavas

and wines are sold

by the glass, and there’s a good wine shop attached.There are plenty of

restau-

rants

– the tourist office has a list – with the moderately priced

L’Hereu

,

c/Casal 1 (

T

938 902 217) particularly recommended, serving generous

portions of country-style food with local wines. The restaurant is across the

rambla

from c/de Sant Joan, through the passageway.

The

Festa Major

(

W

www.festamajor.info

), at the end of August and the first

couple of days in September, brings the place to a standstill: dances and parades

clog the streets, while the festival is most widely known for its display of

castellers

– teams of people competing to build human towers.

Tarragona

Majestically sited on a rocky hill, 100km southwest of Barcelona and sited sheer

above the sea,

TARRAGONA

is an ancient place: settled originally by Iberians

and then Carthaginians, it was later used as the base for the Roman conquest

of the peninsula, which began in 218 BC with Scipio’s march south against

Hannibal. The fortified city became an imperial resort and, under Augustus,

“Tarraco” was the most elegant and cultured city of Roman Spain, boasting at

its peak a quarter of a million inhabitants. The modern city provides a fine

setting for some splendid Roman remains, and there’s an attractive medieval

part, too, while the rocky coastline below conceals a couple of reasonable

beaches. It’s worth noting that almost all Tarragona’s sights and museums are

closed on Mondays

, though the old town and the exterior of some of the

Roman remains can still be seen should you decide to visit then.

The City

The heart of the upper town is the sweeping

Rambla Nova

, lined with cafés

and restaurants, while the parallel

Rambla Vella

marks the start of the old

town.To

either side of the

ramblas

are scattered a profusion of relics fromTarra-

gona’s Roman past, including various temples, and parts of the forum, theatre,

circus and amphitheatre.The old encircling

Roman walls

still stand too, largely

dating from the third and second century BC though erected on even older

OUT OF THE CITY

|

Tarragona