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165

turn right out of the station and climb the steps ahead of you to reach the

Rambla Nova, by the statue of Roger de Llúria (10min), from where the

Rambla Vella and the old town are just a short walk around the balcony

promenade.There are

taxis

outside the station.The

Oficina de Turisme

is

at c/Major 39 in the old town (July–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–9pm, Sun 10am–

3pm; Oct–June Mon–Sat 10am–2pm & 4–7pm, Sun 10am–2pm;

T

977 250

795,

W

www.tarragonaturisme.cat).

The pretty old-town squares, like Plaça del Rei, Plaça del Fòrum and Plaça de

la Font are the best places for outdoor drinks. The latter in particular features

more than a dozen

cafés

,

bars and restaurants

serving everything from tapas

to pizzas.

La Cuca Fera

, Pl. Santiago Rossignol 5 (

T

977 242 007; closed Tues,

Wed & three weeks in Feb) serves moderately priced Catalan dishes with tables

below the cathedral in one of Tarragona’s loveliest backdrops.

El Llagut

,

c/Natzaret 10 (

T

977 228 938), on Plaça del Rei, is good for seafood and rice

dishes. Pricier is

Les Coques Vells

, c/Nou Patriarca (

T

977 228 300; closed Sun

& July), at around €40 a head for fine dining. Otherwise, a good place for lunch

is down in

Serrallo

,Tarragona’s so-called fishermen’s quarter, a fifteen-minute

walk west along the industrial harbourfront from the train station.You’ll get a

tasty paella down here – try along c/Sant Pere, one block back from the

harbour, at places like

Cal Marti

at no. 12 (

T

977 212 384; closed Sun dinner)

and

Cal Brut

at no. 14 (

T

977 241 405; closedWed, and Sun dinner).

Reus

Fourteen kilometres northwest of Tarragona, and 100km southwest of

Barcelona, the small city of

REUS

was the birthplace of architect Antoni Gaudí,

who was born here in 1852.There was little in his early life in Reus to indicate

what was to come. He was born to a humble family of boilermakers and

coppersmiths, and left for Barcelona when he was 16 years old. Consequently,

there are no Gaudí buildings in Reus itself, but there is a fascinating interpreta-

tive centre dedicated to the city’s most famous son that’s essential viewing for

anyone interested in his life and work.You can easily see the centre and the rest

of the sights in Reus in a day out from Barcelona – actually, it’s a charming small

city of 100,000, full of pretty squares, good restaurants and handsome pedestri-

anized shopping streets.

The City

The

Gaudí Centre

, in the central Plaça del Mercadal (Mon–Sat 10am–2pm &

4–8pm, mid-June to mid-Sept 10am–8pm, Sun all year 10am–2pm; €6;

W

www

.gaudicentre.com)

, is a gleaming box of a building, converted from a former

bank, that throws much light on the inspiration behind Gaudí’s work. It’s not

really a museum as such, though there are exhibits including his former school

reports, his only surviving manuscript notebook and a reproduction of the

architect’s study-workshop at the Sagrada Família. Instead, the centre cleverly

investigates the architectural techniques pioneered by Gaudí, with hands-on

demonstration models and audiovisual aids that show how he created wave

roofs and spiral towers, for example. If you ever wondered why none of Gaudí’s

door frames are straight, or what trees, ferns and snails have to do with archi-

tecture, the centre is undoubtedly the place to find out.

OUT OF THE CITY

|

Reus