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170

Figueres and the Dalí museum

FIGUERES

, a provincial town in the north of Catalunya with a population of

some thirty thousand,would pass almost unnoticed were it not for the Museu Dalí,

installed by Salvador Dalí in a building as surreal as the exhibits within. It’s a

popular day-trip from Barcelona, though you should make a reasonably early start

since even the fastest trains take an hour and forty minutes to reach the town.

The museum is very much the main event in town (it’s signposted from just

about everywhere), though a circuit of the impressive walls of the seventeenth-

century Castell de Sant Fernand, 1km northwest of the centre, the last bastion

of the Republicans in the CivilWar, helps fill in any spare time.The town is also

only half an hour by bus from the coast at Roses, or an hour from prettier

Cadaqués. In the centre, pavement cafés line the tree-shaded

rambla

and you can

browse around the art galleries, clothes stores and gift shops in the pedestrian-

ized streets and squares.There are a couple of other museums, too.The Museu

de l’Empordà has some local Roman finds and work by local artists, while the

Museu del Joguet is a toy museum with over three thousand exhibits from all

over Catalunya, but really these are small beer when compared to the Dalí

extravaganza.

Museu Dalí

The

Museu Dalí

(July–Sept daily 9am–7.15pm; Aug daily 9am–7.15pm &

10pm–12.30am; Oct–June Tues–Sun 9.30am–5.15pm; €11, night visits €12;

T

972 677 500;

W

www.salvador-dali.org

) appeals to everyone’s innate love of

fantasy, absurdity and participation. The museum is not a collection of Dalí’s

greatest hits – those are scattered far and wide. Nonetheless, what you do get

beggars description and is not to be missed.

The building (a former theatre on Plaça Gala i Salvador Dalí) is an exhibit in

itself, topped by a huge metallic dome and decorated with a line of luminous

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OUT OF THE CITY

|

Figueres and the Dalí

museum