207 / 344
201
midnight. The menu is eclectic to say the
least – Thai spring rolls to Catalan sausage
– but with the market on the doorstep it’s all
good stuff. Daily 9am–2am.
Ca l’Estevet
c/Valldonzella 46
T
933 024 186;
M
Universitat.
It’s had its heyday, with
scarcely a celebrity photo dating later than
the 1980s (including a fresh-faced Gary
Lineker, from his time with FC Barcelona).
But the chatty English-speaking owner
works the room with gusto, glad-handing
locals and tourists alike, and talking up the
short menu. Entrecôte and the
cabrito
(goat) are the house specials, otherwise it’s
a market-led daily changing menu, with
most mains around €10–15. Portions aren’t
huge, but this is a reliable place for a
decent meal. Tues–Sat 1.30–4pm & 8.30–
11.30pm, Sun 1.30–4pm; closed two
weeks in Aug.
Fil. Manila
c/de les Ramelleres 3
T
933 186
487;
M
Catalunya.
There’s a token effort at
bamboo cladding, but this resolute mom-
and-pop Filipino establishment is little more
than an extension of the family kitchen – the
radio or TV provides background, and the
kids are fed alongside customers. Sizzling is
what the menu does best, but there are
warming soups, grilled fish in banana
leaves, sautéed meat or fish with garlic
sauce, barbecued pork ribs – all good and
hearty dishes. No credit cards. Daily except
Tues 11am–4.30pm & 7.30pm–1am.
Moti Mahal
c/de Sant Pau 103
T
933 293
252,
W
www.motimahalbcn.com;
M
Paral.lel.
Indian restaurants have sprouted
all over the Raval in recent years, and most
don’t really make the grade, as the spice level
is toned down for the local market. But the
Moti Mahal
is considered one of the more
authentic places with a typical menu of
biryanis, tandoori dishes and curries in various
styles and strengths, all around €8 to €12. It’s
not much to look at, but what proper curry-
house is? In any case, if it’s good enough for
Harrison Ford, whose picture is proudly
displayed, it’s good enough for us. Daily
except Tues noon–3.30pm & 8pm–midnight.
La Verònica
Ramba de Raval 2–4
T
933 293 303;
M
Liceu/Sant Antoni.
Funky, retro pizzeria
La
Verònica
fits right into the new-look Rambla
de Raval. There are loads of crispy pizzas
(mostly vegetarian, between €10 and €14)
and inventive salads, enjoyed by a resolutely
young and up-for-a-night-out crowd. Daily
noon–1am; closed 2 weeks in Aug.
Expensive
Biblioteca
c/Junta del Comerç 28
T
934
126 221,
W
www.bibliotecarestaurant.
com;
M
Liceu.
One of the most agreeable
places to sample what Barcelona tends to
call “creative cuisine”, where the market-led,
seasonally changing menu never fails to
impress. The name’s a nod to the library of
cookbooks on display, and from the open
kitchen emerge fish dishes that might be
cooked Japanese- or Basque-style, robust
lamb given the local treatment (with parsnip
and turnip), or the signature dish of venison
pie with flaky pastry served with a zippy veg
purée of the day. Meals cost around €40,
and clued-up English-speaking staff make
for enjoyable, hassle-free dining. Mon–Fri
8pm–midnight, Sat 1–3.30pm & 8pm–
midnight; closed two weeks in Aug.
Sant Pere
For locations, see map, p.74.
Inexpensive
L’Econòmic
Pl. de Sant Agusti Vell 13
T
933 196 494;
M
Jaume I.
The beauti-
fully tiled dining room dates back to 1932,
an eye-catching backdrop for a hearty
three-course set lunch, served up, as the
name implies, for a very reasonable price.
Well-cooked standards (grilled pork or
chicken escalopes, a fish of the day)
alternate with finer fare – like a pasta salad
with black olive paste and salmon. You may
have to wait under the arcades outside until
a table becomes available. No credit cards.
Mon–Fri 12.30–4.30pm; closed Aug.
Lar O’Marulo
c/Bou de Sant Pere 13
T
933 105
798;
M
Urquinaona.
A popular lunchtime-only
place for local workers. It’s a set meal, with
a choice of eight starters and eight mains,
plus dessert and wine, at a knock-down
price. The food is straightforward and
Spanish, fresh from the market, served in a
busy, chatter-filled dining room. Mon–Fri
12.30–4.30pm.
Moderate
Cuines Santa Caterina
Mercat Santa Caterina,
Avgda. Francesc Cambó s/n
T
932 689 918,
W
www.cuinessantacaterina.com;
M
Jaume I.
The neighbourhood market has a ravishing
open-plan restaurant, with tables set under
soaring wooden rafters. The food touches all
bases – pasta to sushi, Catalan rice dishes
CAFÉS, TAPAS BARS AND RESTAURANTS
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Restaurants