202 / 344
196
calamares romana
(fried squid) dyed black
with squid ink or a burger with
foie gras
.
Most tapas cost €6–14. There’s always a
rush and a bustle at meal times, and you
might well have to queue. Daily
8am–midnight.
Esquerra de l’Eixample
For locations, see map, pp.128–129.
La Bodegueta
Rambla Catalunya 100
T
932 154
894;
M
Diagonal.
This long-established
basement bodega serves
cava
by the glass,
a serious range of other wines, and good
ham, cheese, anchovies and other tapas to
soak it all up. In summer you can sit outside
at the
rambla
tables. Daily 8am–2am; closed
mornings in Aug.
Cerveseria Catalana
c/de Mallorca 236
T
932
160 368;
M
Passeig de Gràcia.
A place that is
serious about its tapas and beer – the
counters are piled high, supplemented by a
blackboard list of daily specials, while the
walls are lined with bottled brews from
around the world. It’s mostly an after-work
kind of place, though lunchtime is always
busy too. Daily 9am–1am.
Ciudad Condal
Rambla de Catalunya 18
T
933 181 997;
M
Passeig de Gràcia.
A
really handy city-centre pit stop that caters
for all needs, and the best of the large
uptown tapas-hall-style places. Breakfast
sees the bar groan under the weight of a
dozen types of crispy baguette sandwich,
piled high on platters, supplemented by a
cabinet of croissants and pastries, while the
daily changing tapas selection ranges far
and wide,
patatas bravas
to octopus. It can
be standing room only at lunchtime (and not
much of that either), so get there early for a
seat at the bar or in the rear dining room.
Daily 7.30am–1.30am.
Gràcia
For locations, see map, p.134.
El Roble
c/Luis Antunez 7
T
932 187 387;
M
Diagonal.
Roomy L-shaped bar on a busy
corner with locals popping in for a snack
and a chat. It’s a traditional place, with a
large tapas selection served promptly to
your table (order at the bar; there’s a list on
the wall) or nudge your way up to the
counter and peruse the day’s specials.
Mon–Sat 7am–midnight; closed Aug.
Samsara
c/Terol 6
T
932 853 688;
M
Fontana.
Low tables, low lighting,
and painted concrete walls hung with
artworks and photos provide the backdrop
for a laid-back place offering contemporary
tapas and “platillos” (little plates). The menu
changes daily, but typical dishes are
brochettes of asparagus tempura, mini
hamburgers and inventive salads, most
costing €5–6. It’s totally Gràcia – yes, that’s
a chill-out soundtrack and yes, there’s a
projection screen above the bar. Mon–Thurs
& Sun 8.30pm–1.30am, Fri & Sat
8.30pm–3am.
Sureny
Pl. de la Revolució 17
T
932
137 556;
M
Fontana.
For a more
gourmet experience in Gràcia – it’s still a
tapas place, but you’re served by amiable
staff at restaurant tables with inventive
dishes from a seasonally changing menu.
For around €7 or €8 a time you can
sample clever concoctions like venison
tartare with pineapple preserve, a scallop
swimming in pumpkin soup or monkfish on
baby asparagus. Or a tasting menu
(around €35) gets you seven of the best
plus dessert. Tues–Sat 8.30pm–midnight,
Sun 1–3.30pm & 8.30pm–midnight.
Sarrià
For location, see map, pp.140–141.
Bar Tomás
c/Major de Sarrià 49
T
932
031 077; FGC Sarrià.
The best
patatas
bravas
in the city? Everyone points you here,
to this utterly unassuming, white-formica-
table bar in the ’burbs (12min by train from
Pl. Catalunya FGC station) for a taste of their
unrivalled spicy fried potatoes with garlic
mayo and
salsa picante
. They fry between
noon and 3pm and 6pm and closing so if it’s
bravas
you want, note the hours. Daily
except Wed 8am–10pm; closed Aug.
Restaurants
Most restaurants in Barcelona serve a mixture of local Catalan and more
mainstream Spanish food, with the best concentrating on seasonal market
produce. (The features on p.202 and p.204 provide a rundown of trends and
CAFÉS, TAPAS BARS AND RESTAURANTS
|
Restaurants