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Tapas bars
If you’ve ever been disappointed in tapas – microwaved
patatas bravas
and
frozen calamari, at an outrageous mark-up – it’s time to re-evaluate, at least
in Barcelona where the tapas boom shows no sign of abating. In recent years,
it seems that every bar and restaurant has been quick to rustle up its own
little menu of small dishes, and you can eat really well just dining on tapas,
especially in some of the new-wave places that are deadly serious about
their food.
The current fascination is odd because tapas is not a particularly Catalan
phenomenon at all. Indeed, the best of the old-style city tapas bars tend to
concentrate on specialities from other Spanish regions, like octopus, peppers
and seafood from Galicia; cider, cured meats and cheese from Asturias; or the
ubiquitous Basque-style
pintxos
, which are bite-sized concoctions on a slice of
bread, held together with a cocktail stick (you’re charged by the number of
sticks on your plate when you’ve finished). More contemporary tapas bars serve
“creative tapas” – you’re as likely to get a samosa or a yucca chip as a garlic
mushroom these days in Barcelona – while a few stand-out places offer classy,
restaurant-standard experiences that are still truly tapas at heart.
By the way, don’t expect eating tapas to be cheap. Jumping from bar to bar for
dinner is going to cost you at least as much as eating in a medium-priced
restaurant, say €25 a head, and twice as much in the really good places. Also,
apart from the fancier restaurant-style tapas places, you generally won’t be able
to pay with a credit card.
in on any time, with a bar and mezzanine
seating or a roomier salon at the back. The
weekday buffet breakfast spread is popular,
and there are set lunch and dinner deals, à
la carte dining, and magazines (
National
Geographic
to
Marie Claire
) to browse.
Also branches in the Caixa Forum art
gallery and L’Illa shopping centre. Mon
8.30am–9pm, Tues–Fri 8.30am–1am, Sat
10am–1am.
Esquerra de l’Eixample
For locations, see map, pp.128–129.
Fast Good
c/Balmes 127
T
934 522 374,
W
www.fast-good.com;
M
Provença.
The
concept is familiar – help-yourself ready-
made salads, fancy sandwiches and fruit
bowls – but since this is fast food Ferran
Adrià style (ie, triple Michelin-starred chef on
a mission), quality and sourcing is all.
Gourmet burgers, classy egg and chips,
and proper children’s meals are on the
menu too, all at realistic prices – just a
shame the dining area looks like an airport
departure lounge. Daily noon–midnight.
Forn de Sant Jaume
Rambla de Catalunya 50
T
932 160 229;
M
Passeig de Gràcia.
The
windows are piled high with goodies at this
classic old
patisseria
and
bomboneria
–
croissants, cakes and sweets are either to
take away or eat at the busy little adjacent
café. Mon–Sat 9am–9pm.
Valor
Rambla de Catalunya 46
T
934 876 246;
M
Passeig de Gràcia.
Ornate uptown
chocolate specialist, serving the gentle folk
since 1881. A warming hot choc and
xurros
sends you happily on your way on a chilly
morning. Mon–Thurs 8.30am–1pm &
3.30–11pm, Fri–Sun 9am–midnight.
Gràcia
For location, see map, p.134.
La Nena
c/Ramon i Cajal 36
T
932 851
476;
M
Fontana.
First and foremost, it’s
the food at “the little girl” that’s the main
attraction – fantastic home-made cakes,
plus waffles, quiches, organic ice cream,
squeezed juices and the like. But parents
love it too, as it’s very child-friendly, down
to little seats for little people and games
and puzzles to keep them occupied. Daily
9am–2pm & 4–10pm.
CAFÉS, TAPAS BARS AND RESTAURANTS
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Tapas bars