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191

Coffee and tea

Coffee

is invariably espresso – ask for a

café sol

(

café solo

) or simply

un café

. A

slightly weaker large black coffee is called a

café americano

. A

tallat

(

cortado

) is a

small strong black coffee with a dash of steamed milk; a larger cup with more hot

milk is a

café amb llet

(

café con leche

). Black coffee is also frequently mixed with

brandy, cognac or whisky, all such concoctions being called

cigaló

(

carajillo

); liqueur

mixed with white coffee is a

trifásico

. Decaffeinated coffee (

descafeinat

,

descafei-

nado

) is available, usually in sachet form, though increasingly you can get the real

thing – ask for it

de màquina

(from the machine).

Tea

comes without milk unless you ask for it, and is often insipid (often just a

teabag in a cup of hot water). If you do ask for milk, chances are it’ll be hot and UHT.

Better are the infusions that you can get in most bars, like mint

(menta),

camomile

(

camomila

) and lime

(tila

).

one. This cheery stand-up counter opposite

the Hospital de la Santa Creu dispenses

juices, shakes, beer and sandwiches to

passing punters. The lucky ones grab a

table over the road in the shady little square.

Daily 10am–midnight, June–Sept until 1am.

La Ribera

For locations, see map, p.78.

Café del Born

Pl. Comercial 10

T

932 683 272;

M

Jaume I.

No gimmicks, no fusion food,

and dodgy local art kept at a bare minimum

– this is the recipe for success at this

always popular neighbourhood café-bar.

There’s a simple Mediterranean menu on

offer, while Sunday brunch is the big draw.

Mon–Thurs & Sun 9am–1am, Fri & Sat

9am–3.30am.

Rosal

Pg. del Born 27, no phone;

M

Jaume I.

The

terrassa

at the end of the Born gets the

sun all day, making it a popular meeting

place, though it’s also packed on summer

nights. Menu specials here are couscous or

curry combinations, and if you can raise a

smile from the staff you’re on a roll. Daily

9am–2am.

Tèxtil Café

c/de Montcada 12–14

T

932

682 598,

W

www.textilcafe.com

;

M

Jaume I.

Everyone loves this relaxed boho

café, set inside a shady, cobbled medieval

courtyard on the neighbourhood’s most

visited street (the Picasso museum is just up

the road). The food’s great for sharing –

there’s hummus, guacamole, baba ganoush

and tapenade, as well as things like quiche,

salads, chilli, lasagne and big sandwiches.

And there’s also a lunchtime and evening

menú del dia

, and live swing and jazz most

Sun nights. Tues & Wed 10am–8.30pm,

Thurs 10am–midnight, Fri & Sat 10am–1am,

Sun 10am–midnight; Tues–Thurs in winter

daytime only.

Poble Nou

For location, see map, p.85.

El Tío Ché

Rambla Poble Nou 44–46

T

933 091

872,

W

www.eltioche.com;

M

Poble Nou, or bus

#36 from

M

Barceloneta.

A down-to-earth

café in a down-to-earth neighbourhood, run

by the same family for four generations. The

specialities are orange or lemon

granissat

(crushed ice) and their famous

orxata

(tiger-

nut drink), but there are also

torrons

(almond fudge), hot chocolate, coffee,

croissants and sandwiches. It’s a bit off the

beaten track, though you can stroll up easily

enough from Bogatell beach (15min) or

down the

rambla

from Poble Nou metro

(10min). Daily 10am–midnight; reduced

hours in winter.

Dreta de l’Eixample

For locations, see map, p.115.

Café del Centre

c/Girona 69

T

934 881 101;

M

Girona.

Formerly a casino, later converted

into a café, but retaining its elegant

modernista

decor, which is the main reason

for a visit. It’s only three blocks from the

tourist sights on the Passeig de Gràcia, but

largely invisible as far as most visitors are

concerned, so good to know about for a

quiet coffee or lunch. Mon–Fri noon–2am,

Sat 7.30pm–2am.

Laie Llibreria Café

c/Pau Claris 85

T

933 027 310,

W

www.laie.es

;

M

Urquinaona.

The city’s first and best

bookshop café, and a great place to drop

CAFÉS, TAPAS BARS AND RESTAURANTS

|

Cafés and fast food