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right at the top of the Ramblas underneath
El Triangle shopping centre. It’s good for
croissants and breakfast sandwiches and
there’s a huge terrace, but sit inside if you
don’t want to be bothered by endless
rounds of buskers and beggars. Mon–Fri
8am–11pm, Sat & Sun 10am–11pm,
June–Sept open until 1am.
Barri Gòtic
For locations, see map, pp.54–55.
Caelum
c/Palla 8
T
933 026 993;
M
Liceu.
The
lovingly packaged confections in this upscale
café-cum-deli are made in convents and
monasteries across Spain. Choose from
frutas de almendra
(marzipan sweeties) from
Seville, Benedictine preserves or Cistercian
cookies. Tues–Sun 10.30am–8.30pm;
closed two weeks in Aug.
Café d’Estiu
Pl. de Sant Iu 5–6
T
932 682 598;
M
Jaume I.
The summer outpost of La
Ribera’s
Tèxtil Café
is housed on the
delightful interior terrace of the Museu
Marès, under the spreading boughs of the
orange tree. Relax with the newspapers
during the day, or come for the candlelit
evenings. April–Oct Tues–Sun 10am–10pm.
Dulcinea
c/Petritxol 2
T
932 311 756;
M
Liceu.
One of the old town’s
traditional treats is to come here for a thick
hot chocolate, slathered in cream if you like it
that way. Then if you’ve still got room, try
one of their pastries or perhaps a dish of
mel
i mato
(curd cheese with honey). A dickie-
bow-wearing waiter patrols the beamed and
panelled room bearing a silver tray. Daily
9am–1pm & 5–9pm; closed Aug.
Mesón del Cafe
c/Llibreteria 16
T
933
150 754;
M
Jaume I.
Offbeat locals’
café where you’ll probably have to stand to
sample the pastries and the excellent coffee
– including a cappuccino laden with fresh
cream – though there is a sort of cubbyhole
at the back with a few tables. Mon–Sat
7am–11pm.
El Raval
For locations, see map, pp.66–67.
Granja de Gavà
c/Joaquim Costa 37
T
933 175 883;
M
Universitat.
This tradi-
tionally tiled café has an arty air – witness
the daubs on the walls, the 3m-high woman
on the bar and the weekly poetry readings
and other events. It’s a thoroughly relaxed
spot – proclaiming “No TV, just good music”
– and serves up breakfast, sandwiches,
crêpes, salads, juices and shakes. Mon–Fri
8am–1am, Sat 8am–2.30am.
Granja M. Viader
c/Xuclà 4–6
T
933 183 486;
M
Liceu.
The oldest milk bar (
granja
) in town
is tucked away down a narrow alley just off
c/del Carmé, with a pavement plaque
outside for services to the city. Sr. Viader
was the proud inventor of “Cacaolat” (a
popular chocolate drink, but you could also
try the
mel i mató
(curd cheese and honey)
or
llet Mallorquina
(fresh milk with cinnamon
and lemon rind) for a taste of the old days.
Mon 5–8.45pm, Tues–Sat 9am–1.45pm &
5–8.45pm; closed two weeks in Aug.
Kasparo
Pl. Vicenç Martorell 4
T
933 022
072;
M
Catalunya.
Sited in the arcaded
corner of a quiet square off c/Bonsuccés,
this tiny café and
terrassa
is popular with
locals who come to let their kids play in the
adjacent playground. There’s muesli, Greek
yoghurt, and toast and jam for early birds,
while later in the day sandwiches, tapas and
assorted
platos del dia
are on offer – things
like hummus and bread, vegetable quiche,
couscous or pasta. Daily 9am–10pm, until
midnight in summer; closed Jan.
Mendizábal
c/Junta de Comerç 2, no phone;
M
Liceu.
Don’t look for a bar – there isn’t
Mesón del Cafe
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Cafés and fast food