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271

Barcelona snapshot

I

t only takes a few minutes in Barcelona to realize that wherever you might

be, you’re emphatically not in Spain. Or, rather you are – just not in the

clichéd Spain of paella, sangria, bullfights and flamenco. Instead, Barcelona

is a dynamic modern city that considers itself almost a place apart, with a

deeply felt Catalan identity rooted in a rich, and at times, glorious past. The

language is an easy identifier, with Catalan street and business signs taking

precedence over Castilian Spanish by law. Or just take note of the burgeoning

number of .cat domain names to know that the least Spanish city in Spain

always does things its own way.

City and state

Barcelona is the capital of the province of Catalunya, whose official title is

the

Comunitat Autonoma de Catalunya

. It’s one of seventeen “autono-

mous communities” recognized by the new Spanish constitution of 1978, with

Catalunya defined as a “nationality” (rather than, crucially, a “nation”) by the

original 1979 Statute of Autonomy.

The Catalan government – the

Generalitat

– based in Barcelona, enjoys

a high profile, employing eighty thousand people in sixteen departments or

ministries, controlling social services, urban planning, culture, regional transport,

industry, trade, tourism, fisheries and agriculture. However, as long as the budget

is based on

tax

collected by central government and then returned propor-

tionately, the scope for real independence is limited, as the Generalitat has no

tangible resources of its own and is forced to

share jurisdiction

on strategic

matters such as health, education and justice with the Spanish state. In addition,

although an autonomous part of Spain, Catalunya is not officially recognized

at international level.

However, over the years steps have been taken to create at least the illusion

of independence. Catalan (as opposed to Spanish) tourism, trade and industry

are increasingly promoted abroad, while two of the most visible symbols of the

Spanish state, the Guardia Civil and the Policía Nacional, are gradually being

scaled down, with urban

policing

and rural and highway duties being taken

over by the Mossos d’Esquadra, Catalunya’s autonomous police force. Cultur-

ally, emphasis has been on the promotion of the

Catalan language

– currently

one of the fastest-growing languages in the world. All Catalunya’s children are

taught in Catalan, while the entire machinery of regional government and busi-

ness is conducted in Catalan.

In the end, further independence for Catalunya might well be trumped by the

onward march of

European integration

. Spain’s regional governments already

have representatives at the European Union, working on committees alongside

the Spanish delegates. In addition, the Spanish government is committed to

consulting the regions on any European issues that affect them directly, and

there are ongoing discussions about making Catalan an official EU language.

Parliament and local politics

The

Parlament de Catalunya

(Parliament of Catalunya) comprises a single

chamber of 135 members, with elections held every four years. It sits in the old

Ciutadella arsenal building in Parc de la Ciutadella, in parliamentary sessions that

run from September to December and February to June, though extraordinary

CONTEXTS

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Barcelona snapshot