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49

Palau de la Virreina

The graceful eighteenth-century

Palau de la Virreina

(Virreina Palace) stands

at no. 99 (

o

Liceu), on the corner of c/del Carme, set back slightly from the

Ramblas. Commissioned by a Peruvian viceroy, Manuel Amat, and named after

the wife who survived him, its five Ramblas-facing bays are adorned with pilasters

and Rococo windows. Today the palace is used by the city council’s culture

department, with a ground-floor shop (Tues–Sat 10am–8.30pm) featuring locally

produced arts and crafts and souvenirs and a walk-in

information centre

and

ticket office for cultural events.Two galleries are used for changing

exhibitions

of contemporary art and photography (Tues–Fri 11am–2pm & 4–8.30pm, Sat

11am–8.30pm, Sun 11am–3pm; admission usually charged;

T

933 161 000,

W

www.bcn.cat/virreinacentredelaimatge), while in the courtyard are usually

displayed the city’s two official

Carnival giants

(

gegants vells

), representing the

celebrated thirteenth-century Catalan king, Jaume I, and his wife Violant. The

origin of Catalunya’s outsized (five-metre-high) wood-and-plaster Carnival

figures is unclear, though they probably once formed part of the entertainment at

medieval travelling fairs.The first record of specific city giants is in 1601 – they

were later used to entertain the city’s orphans but are now an integral part of

Barcelona’s festival parades.

Mercat de la Boqueria

Beyond the Palau de laVirreina starts

Rambla Sant Josep

, the switch in names

marked by the sudden profusion of flower stalls – it’s sometimes known as

Rambla de les Flors.The city’s glorious main food market is over to the right,

officially the Mercat Sant Josep though referred to locally as

La Boqueria

(Mon–Sat 8am–8pm;

T

933 182 584,

W

www.boqueria.info)

. While others

might protest, the market really can claim to be the best in Spain. Built on the

site of a former convent between 1836 and 1840, the cavernous hall stretches

Newspaper stall, the Ramblas

THE RAMBLAS

|

Palau de la Virreina • Mercat de la Boqueria