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53

Barri Gòtic

T

he

Barri Gòtic

, or Gothic Quarter (

o

Jaume I), forms the very heart of the

old town, spreading out from the east side of the Ramblas.Within lies a

remarkable concentration of beautiful medieval buildings dating principally

from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, when Barcelona reached the

height of her commercial prosperity before being absorbed into the burgeoning

kingdom of Castile. It will take the best part of a day to see everything here, with

the cathedral –

La Seu

– a particular highlight, and you certainly won’t want to

miss the archeological remains at the

Museu d’Història de la Ciutat

or the

unclassifiable collections of the

Museu Frederic Marès

.There are also plenty of

other quirks and diversions, from exploring the old Jewish quarter to touring the

grand salons of City Hall. That said, sauntering through the medieval alleys,

shopping for antiques or gifts, following the remains of the Roman walls, or simply

sitting at a café table in one of the lovely squares is just as much an attraction.

The picture-postcard images of the Barri Gòtic are largely based on the streets

north of c/de Ferran and c/de Jaume I, where tourists throng the boutiques,

bars, restaurants, museums and galleries. South of here – from Plaça Reial and

c/d’Avinyo to the harbour – the Barri Gòtic is rather less gentrified (or

sometimes just plain run-down).There are no specific sights or museums in this

section, though there are plenty of great shops, cafés, tapas bars and restaurants

– just take care at night in the poorly lit streets.

La Seu

Barcelona’s cathedral,

La Seu

(daily 8am–12.45pm & 5.15–7.30pm, cathedral and

cloister free; otherwise 1–5pm, (€5), includes entrance to all sections;

W

www.

catedralbcn.org)

, is one of the great Gothic buildings of Spain. Located on a site

previously occupied by a Roman temple and then an early Christian basilica, it

was begun in 1298 and finished in 1448, save for the neo-Gothic principal facade,

which was completed in the 1880s (and is currently obscured by scaffolding).The

cathedral is dedicated to the city’s second patroness,

Santa Eulàlia

(known as

Laia in Barcelona), a young girl brutally martyred by the Romans in 304 AD for

daring to prefer Christianity.Her remains were first placed in the original portside

church of Santa María del Mar in La Ribera, which explains why she’s also patron

saint of local sailors and seafarers. In 874 Laia was re-interred in the cathedral and

her ornate alabaster tomb rests in a crypt beneath the high altar.Among the finest

of the carved and painted tombs of the 29

side-chapels

are those reputedly

belonging to Ramon Berenguer I (Count of Barcelona from 1035 to 1076) and

his wife Almodis; however, the tombs actually hold the remains of an earlier count

and Petronila, the Aragonese princess whose betrothal to Ramon Berenguer IV

united Aragon and Barcelona.

2

BARRI GÒTIC

|

La Seu