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classical, pedimented building. There are rocks and minerals on one side, and
fossils on the other, with many of the exhibits found in Catalunya, from fluores-
cent rocks to mammoth bones.
However, the two real unsung glories of Ciutadella are its plant houses,
arranged either side of the Geological Museum (both open daily 8am–dusk;
free). The imposing
Umbracle
(palmhouse) is a handsome structure with a
barrelled wood-slat roof supported by cast-iron pillars, which allows shafts of
light to play across the palms and ferns. Both materials and concept are echoed
in the larger
Hivernacle
(conservatory), whose enclosed greenhouses are
separated by a soaring glass-roofed terrace.A refined
café-bar
at the Hivernacle
(open from 10am) is the best stop in the park for drinks or a meal, with tables
set amongst the palm trees under the glass roof.
Parc Zoològic
Ciutadella’s most popular attraction by far is the city’s zoo, the
Parc Zoològic
(daily: June–Sept 10am–7pm; March–May & Oct 10am–6pm; Jan, Feb, Nov &
Dec 10am–5pm; €16;
T
932 256 780,
W
www.zoobarcelona.com), taking up
most of the southeastern part of the park.The main entrance is on c/Wellington,
and is signposted from
o
Ciutadella-Vila Olímpica, or tramT4 stops outside. It
boasts 7000 animals from 400 different species – which is simply too many for
a zoo that is still essentially nineteenth-century in character, confined to the
formal grounds of a public park and devoted to entertainment rather than
education. Brown bears beg for food, dolphins perform antics daily, while
elephants, giraffes and tigers pace their minimal concrete enclosures. Although
there’s a nod to conservation issues it’s difficult to see beyond the unimaginative
presentation, fast-food concessions, picnic areas and mini-train rides.
However, the zoo’s days here in its current form are numbered – the powers
that be, perhaps having finally appreciated the irony of its juxtaposition next
to the parliament building, have grown weary of explaining to visiting digni-
taries the source of the strong smell pervading the area. There are advanced
plans to move the marine animals to a new coastal zoo and wetlands area
(possibly by 2010) at the Diagonal Mar seashore, though the mammals are
likely to stay at Ciutadella.
Arc de Triomf and around
From the northern entrance of the Parc de la Ciutadella, the wide Passeig Lluís
Companys runs up to the giant brick
Arc de Triomf
(
o
Arc de Triomf).
Roman in scale, yet reinterpreted by its
modernista
architect, Josep Vilaseca i
Casanoves, as a bold statement of Catalan intent, it’s studded with ceramic
figures and motifs, and topped by two pairs of bulbous domes. The reliefs on
the main facade show the city of Barcelona welcoming visitors to the 1888
Universal Exhibition.
To the east lies the
Barcelona Nord
bus station, behind which stretches the
undistinguished
Parc de l’Estacío del Nord
, which cuts across several city
blocks as far as Avinguda Meridiana, ten minutes from the arch. The only
reason to walk or ride out this way would be to present yourself at the front
desk of the Serveis Funeraris (funerary services) de Barcelona, a few metres
along c/Sancho de Ávila from the avenue (by the blue “Banc Sabadell” sign).
You’ll be escorted into the bowels of the building and the lights will be thrown
on in the
Museu de Carrosses Fúnebres
(Mon–Fri 10am–1pm & 4–6pm,
Sat & Sun 10am–1pm; free;
T
934 871 700;
o
Marina) to reveal a staggering
SANT PERE, LA RIBERA AND CIUTADELLA
|
Parc Zoològic • Arc de Triomf and around