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87

portraits, navigation instruments – fail to spark much casual interest.You’ll get

the most out of a visit if you pick up the free audio-guide and hone in on some

of the more illuminating digressions, for example on steam navigation, fishing

methods, life at sea or the growth of the port of Barcelona. Combination tickets

available at the desk are more worthwhile, offering discounted trips on the

harbour sightseeing boats or up the Columbus monument, while

children’s

activities

at weekends and school holidays are well regarded. There’s also a

good

café-restaurant

at the museum (open Mon–Sat lunch, plus Thurs–Sat

dinner), which puts out tables in the pleasant courtyard – on summer evenings,

this becomes a popular patio lounge-bar.

Moored over on the Moll de la Fusta (beyond the harbour’s swing bridge), the

Santa Eulàlia

(May–Oct Tues–Fri noon–7.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm; rest

of the year closes 5.30pm; €2.40, free with Museu Marítim ticket) is another of

the museum’s showpiece exhibits. Dating from 1908, and previously named the

Carmen Flores

, the three-masted ocean schooner once made the run between

Barcelona and Cuba. It’s been fully restored since being acquired by the

museum, and a short tour lets you walk the deck and view the interior.

Port Vell

Barcelona’s inner harbour has been rebranded as

Port Vell

(Old Port;

o

Drassanes/Barceloneta), an area that encompasses the Moll d’Espanya wharf,

the adjacent marina and the Palau de Mar development at the northwestern

head of the Barceloneta district. It has its local critics – it’s undoubtedly tourist-

oriented, showy and expensive – but there’s no denying the improvement made

to what was formerly a decaying port area. The city’s old timber wharf was

among the first to be prettified. Backed by sedate nineteenth-century buildings

along the Passeig de Colom, the

Moll de la Fusta

is a landscaped promenade

with a note of humour injected by the addition of a giant fibreglass crayfish by

Catalan designer Xavier Mariscal and, further on, the Roy Lichtenstein totem-

pole sculpture known as “Barcelona Head”. From the Columbus statue end of

Waterside café

THE WATERFRONT: FROM PORT VELL TO DIAGONAL MAR

|

Port Vell