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93

The redevelopment of old factories and the like has already had a significant

effect, as some of the city’s hottest clubs, galleries and art spaces are now found

in Poble Nou. Meanwhile, the few local attractions are easily seen by anyone

with a couple of hours to spare.The spruced-up

beaches

– Bogatell, Mar Bella

and Nova Mar Bella – are reached along the promenade from the Port Olímpic,

while crossing the main highway backing Bogatell beach puts you at the

bottom of the pretty tree-lined

Rambla Poble Nou

.This runs inland through

the most attractive part of nineteenth-century Poble Nou and is entirely local

in character – no cardsharps or human statues here. Stop off for an

orxata

(a

sweet drink made from ground nuts) or a crushed ice lemon drink at

ElTío Ché

or lunch at

Els Pescadors

o

Poble Nou (line 4) is at the top of the

rambla

and

a block over to the right, and will take you back to Ciutadella, Barceloneta or

the city centre.

Back near the beach, it’s also worth taking the time to walk around the long

walls to the entrance of the

Cementiri de Poble Nou

(daily 8am–6pm), at

the northern end of Avinguda d’Icaria.This vast nineteenth-century mausoleum

has its tombs set in walls 7m high, tended by families who have to climb great

stepladders to reach the uppermost tiers.With traffic noise muted by the high

walls, and birdsong accompanying a stroll around the flower-lined pavements,

quiet courtyards, sculpted angels and tiny chapels, this village of the dead is a

rare haven in contemporary Barcelona.

Diagonal Mar and the Fòrum

The waterfront north of Poble Nou has seen the latest city transformation, in

the wake of the Universal Forum of Cultures Expo, held here in 2004. The

district is promoted as

Diagonal Mar

(

o

El Maresme Fòrum, or tram T4),

anchored by the Diagonal Mar shopping mall, and with several four- and five-

star hotels, plus convention centres and exhibition halls grouped nearby. The

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THE WATERFRONT: FROM PORT VELL TO DIAGONAL MAR

|

Diagonal

Mar and the Fòrum