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96

Plaça d’Espanya and around

Gateway to the 1929 International Exhibition was the vast

Plaça d’Espanya

,

based on plans by noted architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch. Arranged around a

huge Neoclassical fountain, the square is unlike any other in Barcelona, a

radical departure from the

modernisme

so in vogue elsewhere in the contem-

porary city. Striking twin towers, 47m high, stand at the foot of the imposing

Avinguda de la Reina Maria Cristina

, which heads up towards Montjuïc,

the avenue lined by huge exhibition halls used for trade fairs. At the end of

the avenue is Plaça de Carles Buïgas, from where monumental steps (and

modern escalators) ascend the hill to the Palau Nacional, past water cascades

and under the flanking walls, busts and roofline “kiosks” of two grand

Viennese-style pavilions. It’s an overtly showy approach to Montjuïc, with

little whimsy in evidence, save for the

Font Màgica

(Magic Fountain) at the

foot of the steps. On selected evenings (May–Sept Thurs–Sun 8–11.30pm,

music starts 9.30pm; Oct–April Fri & Sat only at 7pm, 7.30pm, 8pm &

8.30pm; free) the fountain becomes the centrepiece of an impressive if slightly

kitsch sound-and-light show – the brightly coloured water appears to dance

to the strains of Holst and Abba.

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Plaça d’Espanya and around