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for

wines

made

from

white

grapes,

which

are

of

great

del-

icacy;

and

third,

the

Valley

of

the

Marne,

where

the

wines

are

characterized

by

an

excellent

bouquet.

Wines

made

solely

from

grapes

of

any

one

district

would

be

found

dis-

appointing.

One

must

unite the

freshness

and

strength

of

Verzenay

with

the

mellowness

of

Bouzy,

the

softness

of

Cramant,

and

the

bouquet

of

Ay,

in

order

to

blend

into

a

champagne

all

the

delightful

qualities

which

a

connoisseur

expects

to

find.

During

January

and

February

the

wine-

rriaker

mixes

in

immense

casks

the

wines

from

difterent

vineyards.

Wines

want

character,

bouquet,

vinosity

and

delicacy,

and

these

qualities

can

only

be

secured

by

the

mixture

of

wines

possessing

these

elements

individually.

To

make

a

fine

champagne

one

must

know

thoroughly

the

characteristics

of

the

wine

of

each

vineyard,

and

this

re-

quires

a

keen

sense

of

smell

and

taste,

and

great

skill

and

experience.

THE

CUVfiE.

During

the

spring

the

merchant

makes

the

"Cuvee,''

which

is

the

assembling

of

a

number

of

wines

in

one

blend;

de-

pending

upon

the

business

of

the

merchant

it

may

be

a

few

or

many

thousand

bottles

and

until

finally

disposed

of

is

known

as

the

"Special

Cuvee"

of

the

year

of

blending.

"Vin-

tage

years"

are the

years

of

especially

fine

crops

and

in

such

years

the

Cuvee

is

made

as

large

as

proper

qualities

permit.

The

making

of

the

Cuvee

is

the

most

delicate

operation

in

the

profession,

requiring

exquisite

judgment

in

the

selection

of

the

wines

to

be

blended

to

produce

the perfect

Cuvee,

a

definite

result

being

obtained

only

after

a

period

of

years

as

the

wine

rounds

out

in

maturity

in

the

bottle.

BOTTLING

By

the

aid

of

mechanical

apparatus

the

wine,

to

which

is

added

a

certain

quantity

of

cane

sugar,

is

put

into

new

and

carefully

rinsed

out

bottles;

these

are

corked

and

the

cork

held

in

by

means

of

an

iron

clasp.

The

bottles

are

immediately

stored

on

their

sides

in

immense

cellars,

hewn

from

solid

chalk.

SERVING

The

process

of

uncorking

this

wine

is

often

grossly

mis-

managed.

The

cork

should

be slowly

and

noiselessly ex-

tracted

after,

first

the

wire,

and

then

the

string,

are

entirely

removed.

The

glass

must

be

near

at

hand

so

that

no

wine

may

be

lost.

Care

should

be

taken

that the

wine

flows

out

quietly,

and

if

gently

poured

on

the

side

of

the

wine

gla.'--3

the

ebullition

of

the

wine

will

be

checked

and

the

goblet

filled

without

spilling.

Do

not

fill

the

glass

to

the

brim

with

any

wine,

but

leave

a

quarter

of

an

inch

or

more

free.

Rich

champagne

only

requires

to

be

stood

in ice

up

to

the

shoulder

of

the

bottle

for

not longer

than

twenty