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There
is
no
doubt
that
to
this
particularly
favorable
soil
is
clue
in
a
great
measure
the
superiority
of
the
Sauterne
wines,
which
it
is
impossible
to
equal
anywhere
else,
how-
ever
careful
the
vinification
may
be.
But
it
is
only
just
to
add
that
the
selection
of
the
vine
plants,
the
extraordinary
care
bestowed
on
the
culture
of
the
vineyards,
the
special
and
expensive
vinification,
contribute
to
ensure
perfection
in
bouquet,
color,
and
finesse
in
a
wine
to
which
no
other
can
be
compared,
for
the
simple
reason
that,
of
its
kind,
there
exists
nothing
like
it.
The
appearance
of
the
vineyards
in
this
region
differs
from
that
of
the
Medoc,
inasmuch
as
the
vines
are
high;
the
surrounding
country
in
which
culture
is
more
varied,
is
hilly
and
picturesque,
the
views
from
some
of
the
heights,
that,
amongst
others,
on which
Chateau
Yquem
is
situated,
extending
miles
over
fertile
scenery.
It
would
take
too
much
space
to
describe
minutely
the
labor
involved
in
cultivating
these
vineyards;
each
season,
or,
more
exactly,
each
day,
brings
its
task,
and
nothing
must
be
neglected,
however
futile
this'
may
appear
to
the
uninitiated.
As
before
mentioned,
the
grapes
are
gathered
and
pressed
in
a
manner
peculiar
to
the
district.
The
gathering
takes
place
later
than
in
the
Medoc
ana
lasts
much
longer,
commencing
at
the
end
of
September,
and
terminating
in
the
first
half
of
November.
The
grapes
are
.^llowed
to
attain
the
extreme
degree
of
ripeness,
and,
after
taking
a
deep
golden
color,
they
finally,
under
the
influ-
ence
of
the
mycoderma
"Botrytis
Cinera,"
become
over-ripe,
a
state
absolutely
necessary
to
ensure
the
quality
of
the
future
wine.
The
berry
subsequently
becomes
browned
and
roasted,
the
skin
gets
thin
and
cracks,
and
a
sugary
juice
oozes
from
it.
Little
by
little,
each
berry
advances
to
this
state
until
the
whole bunch
forms,
so
to
speak,
but
one
mass
of
juicy
fruit.
It
may
easily
be
imagined
how
fragile
the
grapes
are
when
they
get
to
this
degree
of
maturity,
and
how,
whilst
they
gain,
if
the
weather
remains
fine,
they
are
likely to
suffer
if it
becomes
rainy.
The
gathering
is
effected
in
small
quantities
at
a
time,
and
only
as
each
bunch
of
grapes
attains
the
advanced
state
described
above.
Sometimes,
and
especially
in
the
first
growths,
each
berry
is
gathered
separately
and
more
or
less
quickly,
according
to
the
weather.
When
rainy,
the
operations
are
suspended
and
resumed
when
it
becomes
dry
again.
It
is
easy
to
see
that
quantity
here
is
sacrificed
to
quality,
and
that the
expenses
of
wine
making,
under
such
circum-
stances,
must
necessarily
be
high.
It
often
requires
as
many
as
six
successive
pickings
to
gather
one
bunch.
The
cost
of
cultivating
vineyards
in
the
Sauternes
district
is
esti-
mated
to
range
from
1000
to
1200
francs
per
hectare,
in-
clusive
of
grape-picking
and
purchase
of
casks;
the
yield
per
hectare
may
be
roughly
estimated
at
from
4
to
7
hogs-
7