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heads,

according

to

the

vintage.

yititaged

by

ordinary

methods,

the

wines

would

yield

ai'^

t

one-third

more.

In

the

superior

growths,

there

arCj,

iree

selections

or

"tries."

The

first,

comprising

the

berries

which

have

dried

somewhat

after

becoming

over-ripe,

yields

what

is

known

as

"vin

de

tete."

The

second

selection

comprises

the

berries

in

a

somewhat

less

advanced

state

and

yields

a

larger

quantity;

the

third

includes

the

remainder

of the

grapes,

which,

al-

though

ripe,

have

not

attained

the

same

degree

of

maturity

as

the

others;

the

wine

pressed

from

it

is

called

"vin

de

queue"

and

is

relatively

unimportant

in

quantity.

The

grapes

are

pressed

rapidly,

so

as to

prevent

the

wine

from

taking

too

deep

a

color

from

the

skin.

The

must

CHATEAU

YQUEM

which

flows

from

the

press

is

at

once

put

into

casks,

where

the

fermentation

takes place

almost

immediately

and

lasts

several

weeks,

the

duration

depending

on

the

style

of

the

wine

and

on

the

temperature.

The

quality

is

approximately

judged

by

the

musts,

but

it

is

only

after

the

first

racking,

generally

when

the

winter

is

over,

that

a

definite

opinion

can

be

formed.

Four

rackings

a

year

are

necessary,

sometimes

five

for

wines

of

the

first

picking,

and

a

daily

inspection,

tasting

and

filling

of

the

casks,

are

requisite

to

ensure

proper

treatment.

8