11
Champagne.
of
judgment
in
the
selection
and
purchase
of
this
wine,
all
not
being
Champagne
that
is
represented
as
such.
The
brands
and
names
of
the
best
manu-
facturers
being
closely
imitated,
a
good
test
of
genuine
Champagne
is
the
rapidity
with
which
it
throws
down
its
head
;
hence
the
desirability
of
using
a
tall
glass,
in
preference
to
the
flat
broad
glasses
now
so
much
in
vogue.
Good
Champagne
does
not
require
much
iceing.
Mr.
Brande
tells
us
:
“
The
prevalent
notion,
that
a
glass
of
Champagne
cannot
be
too
quickly
swallowed
is
erroneous
;
and
it
is
no
bad
test
of
the
quality
of
Champagne
to
have
it
exposed
for
some
time
in
a
wine-glass,
when,
if
originally
of
the
highest
order,
it
will
be
found
to
have
lost
its
carbonic
acid
gas,
but
to
have
retained
its
body
and
flavour,
which
had
before
been
con-
cealed
by
its
effervescence.
Champagne,
therefore,
should
not
be
drunk
till
this
active
effervescence
is
over,
by
those
who
would
relish
the
above
charac-
teristic
quality.’'
The
Champagne
district
is
estimated
to
produce
annually
on
an
average
52,000,000
gallons
of
wine.
The
manufacturers
sustain
much
loss
from
the
bursting
of
bottles.
That,
and
the
care
demanded
in the
manufacture,
and
expense
entailed
before
a
bottle
is
ready
to
be
sent
to
market,
renders
genuine