2016 REGISTRATION DOCUMENT
HERMÈS INTERNATIONAL
19
OVERVIEW OF THE GROUP
1
ACTIVITY BY SECTOR
1.3.5.2
Art of living
Hermès Art of Living endeavours to be an elegant complement to its
clients’ daily lives, including in their living spaces. Faithful to its culture
and values, Hermès offers a range of unique items in an understated,
resolute style: furniture and lighting, furnishing fabrics and wallpapers,
ornaments and tableware, or personalised creations. Exacting stan-
dards in form, intelligent functionality, and superior materials call on
exceptional skills that combine creativity with precision of gesture.
In 2016, the collections of items, furniture and textiles created under
the auspices of deputy artistic directors Charlotte Macaux-Perelman
and Alexis Fabry were unveiled at the Milan International Furniture Fair,
in a brick pavilion designed by Mexican architects Mauricio Rocha and
Gabriela Carrillo.
The family of office items and curios
Équilibre
d’Hermès
, whose pure
and elementary forms combine leather, maple, wicker and brass, echoes
the tight lines of the
Oria d’Hermès
and
Équis
chairs and table. The new
Sofa
completes the core furniture collection. All of these creations were
received excellently by the press and visitors.
The furnishing fabrics and wallpapers feature imaginary and colourful
urban geometry.
A Walk in the City,
a triptych of decorative panels with
bright colours and structured exuberance, attracted particular attention.
1.3.5.3
Hermès tableware
To celebrate this year’s theme
Nature au galop
, Hermès tableware paid
tribute to naturalist painter Robert Dallet, who worked with Hermès for
twenty-five years, creating many silk scarves. This resulted in
Carnets
d’Équateur
, a new porcelain tableware service designed to reflect the
spirit of a travel journal, where jaguars, macaws, panthers and impalas
frolic surrounded by lush vegetation. The spontaneous sketches and
hyperrealist gouache are the work of Robert Dallet which come to life
and tell a story on theporcelain. Laudedby thepress andquickly adopted
by customers, this service has already proven to be a success.
1.3.6
PERFUMES
In 2016, Perfumes continued their dynamic upward trend, generating
revenue of €262 million, a rise of 9% at constant exchange rates.
The year began with the appointment of Christine Nagel as creative
director perfumer for Hermès Perfumes. Christine Nagel joined Hermès
in 2014 as creative perfumer alongside Jean-Claude Elléna. She was
then made head of creative perfumery and head of Hermès Perfumes
heritage, with Jean-Claude Ellena becoming advisor to the Group mana-
gement of Hermès Perfumes.
The launch of several new products ensured business growth.
In the first half of the year, the Cologne collection set the pace with two
newcolourful creations:
Eaude rhubarbeécarlate
, designedby Christine
Nagel, with its new, compelling and tactile freshness, while
Eau de néroli
doré
, by Jean-Claude Ellena, paid homage to neroli, a component of tra-
ditional Cologne, using it in much higher than usual doses.
For 1May, the Hermessence collection, by Jean-Claude Ellena, revealed
its thirteenth opus:
Muguet Porcelaine
.
The second half of the year saw the launch of
Galop d’Hermès
, the first
ladies’ fragrance by Christine Nagel, available mainly in Hermès stores.
For this fragrance, which is a tribute to a fiery, free femininity, wilful and
passionate, Christine Nagel imagined a paso doble between leather and
rose, natural materials which are emblematic of fragrance and the world
of Hermès. The stirrup-shaped bottle, pure and airy, a remarkable feat
of ingenuity, echoes the equestrian tradition of the house and its history:
it is a modern new edition of a one-off bottle given in 1930 to guests at
the opening of the New York store, the first Hermès store to open outside
France.
Along with these new launches,
Terre d’Hermès
continued to build on its
status as a classic fragrance for men. Supported by a new advertising
campaign, sales grew by 1.7% in a highly competitive market, with the
fragrance ranking number 3 in France.
1.3.7
WATCHES
With consolidated revenue of €158 million in 2016, Watches division
saw a slight decrease in its revenue (-3%) at constant exchange rates,
despite the retail business remaining mostly stable. This figure does not
include sales as a result of the partnership between Hermès and Apple
of the
Hermès Apple Watch
.
Sales on the network of external retailers remained more difficult, parti-
cularly in Asia (excluding Japan).
For Hermès, 2016 was the first full year of sales for the
Slim
d’Hermès
, launched at the end of 2015, with new additions to the
range. A new watch, both classic and contemporary, it was acclaimed
by industry specialists as much for the quality of its finish as for the new
aesthetic it introduced. Ultra-minimalist and simple, going against the
tide in a market prone to ostentation, it was also praised for its design
and for Philippe Apeloig’s innovative typography. The
Slim 39.5 mm
has
an extra-flat Hermès calibre, developed in partnership with Vaucher
Manufacture Fleurier, the H1950: this movement makes it one of the
slimmest watches on the market. Since it was launched, five different
models from the line have already been pre-selected for the Grand Prix
de l’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2015 and 2016.
2016 also saw success for the
Cape Cod
line, which was significantly
updated and to which new additions were made at the end of the year to
celebrate its 25th anniversary. This iconic line of the house, a “square in
a rectangle” according to its creator Henri d’Origny, reinvents the
Chaîne
d’ancre
motif bracelet, designed by Robert Dumas in 1938. In 1998 the
house launched the twice-round bracelet designed by Martin Margiela.
The models launched at the end of 2016 enable
Cape Cod watch
fans
to discover resolutely new expressions in this line which are both graphic
and escapist.
Finally, in 2016, the success of many of the jewelled pieces in the
Watches division was confirmed: the
Faubourg
,
Arceau
and
Médor
lines
once again received newexceptional designs, showcasing the combined
expertise of the best artisan watchmakers and jewellers.