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DRINKS.
n
viiitaglag
of
this
wine
is
an
extremely
complicated
and
delicate
affair.
In
order
to
insure
the
excessive
softness
and
rich
liqueur
character
which
are
its
dis-
tinguishing
qualities,
the
grapes,
naturally
excessively
sweet
and
juicy,
are
allowed
to
dry
on
their
stalks,
preserved,
as
it
were,
by
the
rays
of
the
sun,
until
they
become
covered
with
a
kind
of
down,
which
gives
to
them
an
almost
mouldy
appearance.
During
this
period,
the
fruit,
under
the
influe.nce
of
the
sun,
ferments
within
its
skin,
thereby
attaining
the
requisite
degree
of
ripeness,
akin
to
rottenness.
"
On
the
occasion of
the
vintage,
as
it
is
absolutely
essential
that
the
grapes
should
be
gathered,
not
only
when
perfectly
dry,
but
also
warm,
the
cutters
never
commence
work
until
the
sun
has
attained
a
certain
height,
and
invariably
suspend
their
labours
when
rain
threatens,
or mists
begin
to
rise.
At
the
first
gathering
they
detach
simply
the
graims
r
Sties,
or
such
grapes
as
have
dried
after
arriving
at
proper
maturity,
rejecting
those
which
have
shrivelled
with-
out
thoroughly
ripening,
and,
from
the
former,
a
wine
of
extreme
softness
and
density,
termed
creme
de
titCy
is
produced.
"By
the
time
the
first
gathering
has
terminated,
other
grapes
will
have
sufficiently
ripened
and
rotted,
or
dried,
and
both
sorts
are
now
detached,
yielding
the
wine
called
vin
de
tete,
distinguished
by
equc^l
softness
with
the
creme
de
tite,
but
combined
with
a
larger
amount
of
alcohol,
and
greater
delicacy
of
flavour.
At
this
point,
a
delay
generally
ensues,
according
to
the
state
of
the
weather,
it
being
re-