80 / 374
8o
DRINKS.
quisite,
towards
the
end
of
October,
to
wait
,while
the
rays of
the
sun,
combined
with
the
night
dews,
bring
the
remainder
of
the
grapes
to
maturity,
,when
the
third
gathering
takes
place,
from
which
the wine,
termed
centre,
frequently
very
fine
and
spirituous,
is
..produced.
Another
delay
now
ensues,
a,nd
then
com-
mences
the
final
gathering,
when
all
the
grapes
re-
maining
on
the
stalks
are
picked,
which,
when
the
vintage
has
been
properly
conducted,
is
usually
only
a
very
small
quantity,
yielding
what
is
termed
the
vin
de
queued
However,
although
it
is
not
given
to
all
of
us
to
be
able
to
afford
Chateau
d'Yquem,
yet
there
are
many
of
the
other
white
wines
of
France,
which
are
within
.ordinary
limits,
and
which
compare
rnore
than
favour-
ably
with
the
red
wines.
Burgundy
and
other
Wines.
Verily
there
cannot
be
much
amiss
with
wine
that
causes
a
holy
man
(by
profession)
to
break
forth
into
song
as
follows
:
**Nous
les
boirons
lentement,
Nous
les
boirons
tendrement.
Ton
Clos
Vougeot,
ton
Romance
Par
nous
la
sainte
liqueur.
Qui
nous
rechauffe
le
coeur,
Ne
sera
jamais
profanee."
More
generous
than
the
wines
of
Bordeaux,
it
has
been
the
drink
of
Kings
and
Popes,
and
perhaps
no
vineyard
has
a
similar
honour
done
it
as
that
of Clos-
I
Vougeot
(Napoleon's
favourite
wine)
;
for
when
a
j
French
regiment
marches
past
that
celebrated
vine-