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alike.There are scores of bars in both these areas, all either themed or otherwise
fairly mundane, but with the advantage that you can simply hop from one to
another if you don’t like your first choice. Other stylish designer bars or DJ-led
music bars are concentrated mainly in the
Eixample
and the streets to the west
of
Gràcia
, particularly on c/Santaló and c/Marià Cubí in
Sant Gervasi
.
Local bars are licensed to stay open usually until 11pm, although some keep
going until 3am. Music bars usually go until 2.30 or 3am, after which you’ll
have to resort to a club.
What will you be having?
The
beer
(
cervesa
in Catalan,
cerveza
in Spanish) in Barcelona is lager, with the two
main brands you’ll see everywhere being Damm’s Estrella and San Miguel. Voll
Damm is a stronger lager, Bock Damm a darker one, or you might also see draught
cervesa negra
, a kind of black fizzy lager. Beer generally comes in 300ml bottles,
while, on draught, a
caña
is a small glass, a
jarra
a larger one, whilst the
tubo
is a tall,
cylindrical glass.
Wine
(
vino
,
vi
), either red (
tinto
,
negre
), white (
blanco
,
blanc
) or rosé (
rosado, rosat
),
is the invariable accompaniment to every meal. In bars, cafés and budget restau-
rants, it’s whatever comes out of the barrel, or the house bottled special (ask for
vin
or
vi de la casa
). The Catalan wine industry is centred on the Alt Penedès and Priorat
regions, notably the champagne-like
cava
from Sant Sadurní d’Anoia, with other local
wine-making regions found in Empordà and around Lleida.
In mid-afternoon – or even at breakfast – many Catalans take a
copa
of
liqueur
with
their coffee (for that matter, many of them drink wine and beer at breakfast, too).
Brandy
(
coñac
) is mostly from the south, though if you want a Catalan brandy look
for Torres or Mascaró. For other spirits, always specify
nacional
unless you want a
particular named foreign brand.
Ramblas
For locations, see map, p.46.
Bosc de les Fades
Ptge. de la Banca 5
T
933
172 649,
W
www.museocerabcn.com;M
Drassanes.
Tucked away in an alley off the
Ramblas, beside the entrance to the wax
museum, the “Forest of the Fairies” is
festooned with gnarled plaster tree trunks,
hanging branches, fountains and stalactites.
It’s a bit cheesy, which is perhaps why it’s a
huge hit with the twenty-something crowd
who huddle up in the dark recesses. Mon–
Thurs & Sun 10.30am–1am, Fri & Sat
10.30am–3am.
La Cazalla
Ramblas 25, no phone;
M
Drassanes.
An historic remnant of the old days, the
hole-in-the-wall
Cazalla
(under the arch, at
the beginning of c/de l’Arc del Teatre) first
opened its hatch in 1912. It was closed for
some years, but it’s now back in business
offering stand-up coffees, beers and shots
to an assorted clientele of locals, cops,
streetwalkers and the occasional stray
tourist. Mon–Sat 10am–3am.
Barri Gòtic
For locations, see map, p.54–55.
L’Ascensor
c/Bellafila 3
T
933 185 347;
M
Jaume I.
Sliding antique wooden
elevator doors announce the entrance to
“The Lift”, but it’s no theme bar – just an
easy-going local hangout, great for a late-
night drink. Daily 6.30pm–3am.
L’Ascensor
BARS AND CLUBS
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Bars