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213

tours, check their email and generally chill

out. It’s solidly tourist-orientated, with

footy on the TV and run-of-the-mill tapas,

English breakfast and burgers are

available – even so, it’s more relaxed here

than in the rowdy stag-friendly “Irish pubs”

nearby, and is probably the most like an

English pub that the city has to offer.

Mon–Thurs & Sun 9am until 2am, Fri &

Sat 9am until 3am.

El Raval

For locations, see map, pp.66–67.

Almirall

c/de Joaquin Costa 33

T

933 189 917;

M

Universitat.

Dating from 1860, Barcelona’s

oldest bar – check out the

modernista

doors and counter – is a venerated leftist

hangout. Not too young, not too loud,

always good for a late-night drink. Daily

7pm–3am.

Benidorm

c/de Joaquin Costa 39

T

933 178

052;

M

Universitat.

Imagine … if your elderly

aunt turned her parlour into a bar, dimmed

the lights, and invited all her young friends.

That, in a nutshell, is

Benidorm

, just a little

bit cheesy and none the worse for that.

Daily 7pm–3am.

Café de les Delícies

Rambla de Raval 47

T

934 415 714;

M

Liceu.

One of the first

off the blocks in this revamped neighbour-

hood, and still perhaps the best – cute and

cosy, mellow and arty, with a summer

terrace and food for sharing. It feels more

like someone’s house than a bar, especially

out back in the homely no-smoking lounge.

Daily except Wed 6pm–2am, Fri & Sat until

3am; closed 2 weeks Aug.

La Confitería

c/de Sant Pau 128

T

934 430 458;

M

Paral.lel.

This old

modernista

bakery and

confectioner’s with a carved wood bar,

murals, chandeliers and mirrored cabinets is

now a popular meeting point. Mon–Sat

8pm–3am, Sun 7pm–2am.

London Bar

c/Nou de la Rambla 34

T

933 185

261;

M

Liceu.

Opened in 1910, this well-

known bar attracts a mostly tourist clientele

these days, but it’s still worth looking in at

least once. There’s no longer any live

music, and the big-screen TV at the back

and the wireless Internet smack of “just-

another-bar” syndrome, but nothing can

dull the exuberant

modernista

decor (nor

the authentic old town sleaze just up the

street). Tues–Sat 7pm–4am; closed two

weeks in Aug.

Marsella

c/de Sant Pau 65

T

934 427 263;

M

Liceu.

Authentic, atmospheric, 1930s bar

– named for the French port of Marseilles –

where absinthe is the drink of choice. It’s

frequented by a spirited mix of local

characters and young trendies, all looking

for a slice of the old Barri Xines. Mon–Sat

10pm–3am; closed 2 weeks in Aug.

Muy Buenas

c/del Carme 63

T

934 425 053;

M

Liceu.

Arguably the Raval’s nicest tradi-

tional watering-hole, with a restored

modernista

interior and eager-to-please

staff making things go with a swing. A

long marble trough does duty as the bar,

and the beer’s pulled from antique beer

taps. There are also tapas and meals.

Tues–Sat 9am–3am.

Resolis

c/Riera Baixa 22

T

934 412 948;

M

Liceu/Sant Antoni.

The team behind

Ànima

restaurant rescued this decayed,

century-old bar and turned it into a cool

hangout with decent tapas. They didn’t do

much – a lick of paint, polish the panelling,

patch up the brickwork – but now punters

spill out of the door on to “secondhand

clothes street” and a good time is had by

all. There are superior tapas too, so if you

only come to one bar in the Raval, come

here. Mon–Sat 11am–1am.

Zelig

c/del Carme 116

T

934 415 622,

W

www.zelig-barcelona.com

;

M

Sant

Antoni.

The photo-frieze on granite walls and

a fully stocked cocktail bar make it very

much of its

barri

but

Zelig

stands out from

the crowd – two Dutch owners offer a

chatty welcome, a tendency towards

1980s sounds and a slight whiff of camp.

Tues–Sun 7pm–2am, Fri & Sat 7pm–3am.

Sant Pere

For location, see map, p.74.

Casa Paco

c/d’Allada Vermell 10

T

935 073

719;

M

Jaume I.

The

barri

’s signature bar

is this cool-but-casual music joint that’s a hit

on the weekend DJ scene – the tagline “not a

disco, just a bar with good music” says it all.

There’s a great

terrassa

under the trees, and

if you can’t get a table here there are half a

dozen other

al fresco

bars down the traffic-

free boulevard. Meanwhile, the associated

Pizza Paco

arcoss the way (also with its own

terrace) means you don’t have to go

anywhere else for dinner. Mon–Thurs & Sun

9am–2am, Fri & Sat noon–3am, Oct to March

opens daily at 6pm.

BARS AND CLUBS

|

Bars