22 / 244
22
Wines.
running
into
an
excessive
fermentation,
and
so
losing
much
of
its
saccharine
matter/’
From
the
rich
nature
of
the
Douro
grape,
which,
when
hung
up
in
the
sun
to
dry,
are
like
masses
of
sugar,
the
fermentation,
once
begun,
would
not
stop
of
its
own
accord
(even
when
the
wine
is
drawn
away)
till
it
becomes
unpleasantly
bitter
;
hence,
to
re-
tain
the
delicious
qualities
of
the
grape,
it
is
neces-
sary
to
add
brandy
at
the
critical
moment,
ere
the
bitterness
commences.
The
colour
of
Port
wine
varies
from
a
dark
red
to
a deep
tawny brown
when
old.
When
it
has
become
tawny,
it
loses
much
of
its
astringency.
It
derives
its
colour
from
the
skin
of
the
grape,
without
the
aid
of
geropiga
or
any
other
foreign
ingredient
How
great
the
crime,
how
flagrant
the
abuse,
T’
adulterate
generous
wine
with
noxious
juice.
Of
the
excellence
of
genuine
Port
wine
many
a
travelling
connoisseur
can
testify
who
has
drunk
it
on
the
spot
and
enjoyed
the
full
mellow
body,
exquisite
flavour,
and
seducing
mildness
of
the
pure
unmixed
juice
of
the
grape
;
but
after
the
“
blending”
and
adulterations
to
which
the
choice
wines
of
the
Alto
Doiu’o
are
subjected
in
order
to
reduce
them
to
the
orthodox
Port
standard,
it
would
be
just
as
reasonable
to
expect
the
product
to
be
good
as
to