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176

DRINKS.

should

say,

of

cherries,

strawberries,

gooseberries,

apricots,

peaches,

and

other

fruits.

He

it

was

who

first

proposed

the

pressure

of

the

fruits,

without

infus-

ing

them

entire.

Some

years

afterwards,

Breard,

one

of

the

chiefs

of

the

fruitery

of

Louis

XIV.,

gave

these

liqueurs

the

name

of

Hypoteques

to

distinguish

them.

The

products

both

of

Procope

and

Breard

were

of

the

highest

excellence.

*''!,'

says

du

Verger,

'

have

always

considered

Procope's

Ratafias

as

finer

and

more

delicate,

those

of

Breard

softer

and

more

flowing

but,'

he

adds,

*

as

tastes

differ,

both

their

Ratafias

have

their

approvers

and

their

critics.

It

is

difficult

to

equal

them

in

cold

countries,

either

in

taste

or

in

smell.'

"

They

are

called

Liqueurs

of

conversation^

because,

according

to

this

authority,

in

talking

after

meals,

you

may

drink

of

them

three

or

four

times

as

much

as of

other

liqueurs

without

fear

of

any

incon-

venience.

Nay,

they

nourish

and

fortify

the

stomach,

and

in

addition

to

being

pleasant

to

the

palate,

are

good

friends of

the

liver.

The

first

Ratafia

was

called

Eau

de

Cerises,

or

cherry

water.

The

kernels

should

be

added

to

the

juice

of

the

fruit

with

cinnamon

and

mace

in

small

quantities.

This

renders

the

composition

beneficent,

strengthens

the

brain,

and

banishes

the

vapours.

The

Eau

clairette

de

framboises

is

also

composed

of

cherries,

though

a

few

strawberries are

added

to

give

the

dominant

flavour.

It

should,

therefore,

says

the

Master

Distiller,

be

rather

called

Eau

clairette

frambois^e.

L'eau

clairette

de

groseilles

has

a

specific

virtue

agfainst

biliousness.