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66
DRINKS.
the
grape,
and
is
used
only
for
the
finest
brands.
There
are
six
of
these
squeezes
made,
each
more
powerful
than
the
last
;
and
the
result
of
each
is,
of
course,
inferior
in
quality
to
its
predecessor,
till
the
sixth,
called
the
r^bkhe}
is
reached,
which
produces
a
coarse
wine,
reckoned
only
fit
to
be
given
to
the
workmen.
The
must
begins
to
ferment
more
or
less
quickly,
according
to
the
temperature,
in
the
casks,
at
the
end
of
ten
or
twelve
hours,
and
the
process
continues
for
a
considerable
time,
during
which
the
colour
changes
from
pale
pink
to
a
light
straw
tint.
About
three
months
are
allowed
to
elapse,
when
the
fermentation
stops
through
repeated
rackings
and
the
cold
of
the
season.
And
now
the
real
trouble
of
the
Champagne
manu-
facturer
begins.
First,
there
is
the
blend,
which
varies
in
the
case
of
each
manufacturer.
The
produce
of
the
different
vineyards
is
mixed
in
enormous
vats,
according
to
the
recipe
in
vogue
in
the
particular
establishment,
and
to
this
mixture
is
added,
if
neces-
sary,
a
proportion
of
some
old
wine
of
a
superior
vintage.
A
most
subtle,
carefully
educated,
and
exquisite
taste
is
required
to
discern
when
the
win^,
in
this
crude
state,
has
acquired
the
proper
flavour
and
bouquet.
Then
comes
the
important
point
of
effervescence
—
a
source
of
much
anxiety
to
the
manu-
^
The
rebeche
is
principally
sold
to
people
manufacturing
cheap
Champagnes
;
by
mixing
with
other
wines
of
very
light
complexion,
they
give
them
body,
and
make
a
stuff
which
can
be
produced
at
a
very
low
price.